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White Satin 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas Doug Phillips 1974
Page Views: 4,798
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006

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Shirley leading the 4-star third pitch of White Sa...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney.

Pitch 1:
Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge.

Pitch 2:
Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c)

Pitch 3:
This is what you came for...
Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top.


right side of the Northeast wall


Standard rack to 3"

Photos of White Satin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sufficient adrenaline can be found on the route if...
Sufficient adrenaline can be found on the route if...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3 White Satin
pitch 3 White Satin
Rock Climbing Photo: Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch of White Satin. The crux is just above m...
BETA PHOTO: 3rd pitch of White Satin. The crux is just above m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big flake at the end of the 2nd pitch.
Big flake at the end of the 2nd pitch.

Comments on White Satin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 17, 2006

It would be nice if you could rap this route. An anchor at the top of the last pitch would make it possible (I think) because of the newer sport climb that parallels pitch 2 and it would ease the crowding on the rappel route down the West side for Wherever I.M.R.
By Drew Peterson
Aug 15, 2007

To address the above comment... we did the route yesterday, and from the top of the third pitch, keep going another 25 feet up and slightly to the left. There is a bolted anchor with rap rings. You can rap from here and in 4 raps you'll be on the ground about 100 yards to the left of the start of White Satin. At the bottom of the second rappel, you do have to traverse climbers left about 50 feet to reach the next anchor with rap rings on the big ledge. This was a great route. The 3rd pitch is very very nice.
By Bryson Slothower
Sep 23, 2007

By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The fantastic third pitch makes you forget all about the nasty first pitch. I recommend the .10c bolted variation for the 2nd pitch.

We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Warning about this route. Belay ledge on Pitch 2 and 1 can see significant and dangerous rockfall from people topping out on Sky Chimney. Be aware!!!
By Serge Smirnov
Oct 6, 2015

Watts describes pitch 2 as 5.7, but the "shallow inside crack" felt 5.8. I mention this in case others, like me, find themselves wondering if they're on route at that point.
By dydayley
From: camas,wa
Mar 6, 2016

I highly recommend large stoppers like hexes on the last pitch. Cams do not inspire confidence on this pitch, but do work. It was an amazing pitch, but would have been more fun to lead if I would have had some larger stoppers. Great pitch!
By Vince Schreck
From: Portland, OR
Jun 22, 2016 are so right on with your comment. I wasted quite a bit of energy trying to get the right cam placements in upward flares. I'd place the cam, crank on it a bit, and then, it would start to walk-up the flare. I would then just reach down and bump it to a better higher placement.

My best placement was probably a nut in the middle of the pitch, and luckily, a big #4 camelot (purple) up before the crux. Hexes would have worked perfectly for the upward flares.
By Clayton Crowhurst
From: Portland, OR
Apr 3, 2017

While belaying my second up the second pitch she walked a #4 up to the top of the large flake traverse to protect it and as she pulled in the cam to check it I watched the whole flake now out about 2 inches. Both of us traversed the flake with no incident but tread lightly, this may be one of those pieces of rock that just because it's been up there for a long time doesn't mean it's gonna stay up there forever.

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