White Salmon Glacier
|Original: ||Easy Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Piley, Richards, Thompson, September 9, 1926|
|Season: ||Spring ideal|
|Page Views: ||933|
|Submitted By: ||Scott Perkins on Feb 16, 2012|
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Scotty descending the White Salmon Glacier route a...
A moderate glacier climb that is also a somewhat popular ski descent. The White Salmon is probably the most common descent route when climbing northside routes.
From the foot of the White Salmon(or bivy sites up and right) ascend the glacier navigating around rock outcroppings and crevaces as necessary to a point at the base of Winnies Slide(6,800ft) ascend the 40-45 degree terrian up Winnies Slide for a few hundred feet until you able to cross onto the upper curtis Glacier. Additional bivy sites here.
From Curtis Glacier identify "Hells Highway" a snow chute between rock cliffs that gives access to the upper west edge of the Sulphide Glacier. Make your way acroos Curtis Glacier(large crevaces here)to the base of hell's Highway. Beware rockfall hazard here, also potential Schrund difficulties in later season. Climb Hell's Highway onto the Sulphide and continue up to the summit pyrimad. The quickest and most logical route to the top of the pyramid from here is to climb the West Ridge summit route via 4th class or continue a bit farther on the Sulphide to the central gully route of the pyramid and ascend the face via 3rd and 4th class scrambling. The central gully route tends to see the most traffic and is fairly prone to party induced rockfall.
Approach info same as North face- Follow Mount Baker hwy to the town of Glacier(last stop for beer). On the outskirts of town is the Park Service Ranger Station, obtain backcountry permits here. Permits are free of charge but are required for travel into Shuksan. Continue up Mount Baker Hwy to a small pull-off at White Salmon Lodge. Do not block gate. Walk around the gate and follow the road past the lodge until the road ends at an old clearcut area.
If there is good snow cover(ideal) descend northeast down to White Salmon Creek and enjoy a leasurely hike towards the toe of the White Salmon Glacier. Beware of large avalanches from the very active Hanging Glacier that can sweep this entire here.
If there is not good snow cover on the approach DO NOT hike down into the WS Creek valley, hold elevation when entering the clear cut area and contour around, surrendering elevation as needed to avoid rock bands and stream crossings. This brings you to the base of WS Glacier
There are good bivy sites at rock outcroppings along eastern edge of White Salmon.
crampons, ax, crevasse rescue gear