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White Rain T 

White Rain 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Walt Shipley, 1989
Page Views: 4,137
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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D dave dooin it!


White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book.

The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top.


Pro includes QD's for 6 bolts, a few small TCU's (#1 - #3), and a few small - medium cams for a short crack to finish the climb. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains/rings at the top.

Photos of White Rain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Diesel Dave On white rain.
Diesel Dave On white rain.
Rock Climbing Photo: The pretty rock of "White Rain". Photo b...
The pretty rock of "White Rain". Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Croft leading White Rain.
Peter Croft leading White Rain.
Rock Climbing Photo: D dave .
D dave .
Rock Climbing Photo: white rain being led and crack queen
BETA PHOTO: white rain being led and crack queen

Comments on White Rain Add Comment
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By Randy
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The moves near the top (up to the crack seemed pretty stout and definitely require care.
By Murf
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Deserves every star, stellar line..
Clipping the first bolt can be done safely with a "boulder belay". I felt the crux was past the last bolt.

RE: Description of rappel. There is no rap anchor at the top of WR. You can rap from the top of Mojave Queen, below and climber's left from the top of WR. It is a double rope rap for 60m ropes.
By Adam Stackhouse
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

When we did this route several years ago, and we felt the crux came immediately after the first bolt (which we stick-clipped). Add this with Murf's comment and you get the picture (alot of good moves). At the top were one meanders right to the shallow crack, dont be tempted to go up at or before this point. As I recall, moving a bit to the right of this before heading up made it easier. 5.10-ish in this section. Found rap bolts via the right shoulder of this rock. Overall a wonderful route in a pristine area. Highly recommended.
By Phil Esra
Feb 4, 2013

Tough climb. 3rd bolt looks old and dodgy.

At the top of the climb, on the left side, is a pile of broken boulders. Just left of this pile, 15-ish feet from the top-out, is the bolted rap anchor for Mojave Queen. A 70m rope barely got me to the ground by tensioning right (uphill), toward the base of White Rain.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 25, 2013

The Rock quality cannot be overstated. This was exactly what I was expecting after all the queen mountain rock hype. I thought the crux was at the beginning moving off a big ball of a jug. 3rd bolt is dodgey.. This is definitely easier than Mojave Queen.
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 25, 2013

Walt rated this 5.10d on the first ascent.
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Apr 19, 2015

Roy McClenahan led this the day we did the FA of Cowboy Junkies and I thought it was continuously hard, i.e. hard to start and hard between every bolt. As Murph noted the crux was up high. 11a/b for sure.

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