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White Queen 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2006

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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>


This ultra-bouldery route is the hardest on the main ET cliff band, and 2nd hardest in the area, behind the classic Child of Light. The route begins in the dihedral on the right end of the Frog Prince wall at an orange bolt hanger. Easy (11+?) pockets head up to a point where the wall really steepens to near-horizontal. At this point, the crux begins with a powerful lock-off, to an undercling, to set up for the crux dyno to a 2 finger pocket over the lip. Apparently there are two potential sequences here, that involve dyno-ing with either the left or right hand (I went left). Above the lip, easy moves lead to the chains.

Variously sources over the years have described this route as up to 13c/d. There are also rumors that this route has been chipped since its first ascent. Perhaps the difficulty has changed over time, but as of the fall of 2003, this route was no harder than 13b. I've heard it described as V8, which might be appropriate from ground to chains, but the crux itself is likely no harder than V6. I would describe it as 12a to V6. In any case, this is 13b by NM standards, and all that that implies.


Far right end of 'steep' part of Frog Prince wall. Begins in the dihedral.



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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2006

The lock-off just before the crux of this route gave me elbow tendonitis in my left arm. Since this is basically a one-move wonder, when working the route you're basically obliged to repeat the 'one-move' over and over. It took me more than 6 months to recover from it.
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Alternate less powerful and maybe less tendonitis causing beta for the crux. May only work for shorter climbers.

From the clipping jug below the crux, go left hand for a bad 4 finger pocket. Get a deep drop knee with the right foot, almost touching your right hand, allowing the right hand to get the undercling. Hit the left pocket over the lip with the left hand.

Also the right 2 finger pocket above the lip has been rumored to have been improved throughout the years. So if looking for a "natural" holds send, use the left pocket.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I am six feet tall and have done the crux going right hand over the lip and left hand. What I did feel more comfortable when going with my right hand was using my pointer and middle finger to hit the pocket versus middle and ring finger.
By Brototype Winkler
From: The Bay Area
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

For what it may or may not be worth I found alternate semi-static beta that doesn't use the undercling but still goes left. I got the bad 4-finger pocket with my left, set the deep drop knee and crossed right hand to a fairly deep, but hard to hit two-finger pocket just below the lip and then cut and reset my feet to cross again left hand to the pocket over the lip. It felt easier to do it this way, but the boulder problem still felt at least V7 to me.

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