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Willard S 

White Men Can't Jump 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson - August 1995
Page Views: 1,385
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 12, 2001

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Achey sticking it to the man on White Men Can't Ju...

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  • Description 

    Start at the next route up the hill from 'Willard', look for the 1st bolt (home made hanger with T-nut, 'gym' style bolt, could be replaced)! Climb up into the right-facing dihedral (great laybacking in this seam, clipping bolts along the way). Once at the 5th bolt, climb onto the covered ledge to the left. From here, make commiting moves (height-dependent) to clip the 6th bolt (bad fall potential possible). From here, back down to the ledge and jump for the lip jug (crux), to the right of the anchors and clip from here, one could also continue past the anchors once hitting the right hand jug. One may also avoid the crux of this route by moving left to the anchors of "Willard".

    Note: If toproping this route, be sure to clip 3rd/4th bolt for the swing into the tree.

    Protection 

    6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.


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    By ScoJo
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 13, 2017

    If you're using Bob D's guidebook, this route is mislabeled on the topo (although the description is correct). If you follow the lines on the topo, you will end up on Dynamic Duel like us.

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