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White Lightning T 

White Lightning 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Gourdie Smaill, Steve Sutton, Paul Piro, Dean Hart, Ed Spat
Page Views: 1,355
Submitted By: John Groh on Aug 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Pitch 4, making it to the bolt after a 50 foot, un...

Description 

Scary and runout (but amazing) friction slab. Definitely type 2.5 fun.

P1: Same as pitch 1 of Diedre. Climb the easy, low-angle slab up and left to a bolt anchor. Easily linked with pitch 2, as long as you're not stuck behind another party. 5.7ish.

P2: Super short. Climb left and slightly up to another set of bolts. 5.6ish.

P3: The scary pitch. Climb sustained 5.9 friction slab with no pro to the next set of bolts roughly 50 feet up. You wouldn't want to fall on this one.

P4: Move up and slightly left to pull the small roof/bulge and continue up for another few feet. Eventually start traversing up and right to the next bolt anchor. Route finding can be tricky on this one - don't go too high. There are bolts, but they're pretty spaced out - maybe 3 or 4 for the whole pitch. 5.10b.

P5: Short. Move left from the anchor and up. Pretty much the same as pitch 4 - bolted but runout friction slab. The pitch ends at another bolt anchor. 5.10c.

P6: The first well-protected pitch of the route. Enjoyable but slightly off-balance arete climbing to another bolt anchor. 5.9.

P7: Climb super low-angle friction slab, moving left and meeting up with the finish of Diedre in the right-facing corner. Belay from a tree and walk off.

Location 

Shares the start of Diedre.

Protection 

You can get a few placements on pitches 1-2. Pitch 3 has no pro. You can get a cam under the roof/bulge on pitch 4, and there are a few sparce bolts as well. Pitch 5 has a few sparce bolts. Pitch 6 is well-bolted. Pitch 7 has some placements in the Diedre corner.


Photos of White Lightning Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: More very run out, unprotected slab!
More very run out, unprotected slab!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4.  What we see, but you don't is this 5...
Pitch 4. What we see, but you don't is this 5...

Comments on White Lightning Add Comment
Show which comments
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jun 13, 2016

You better have a solid follower for pitch 4 - there's some legit slabbing without pro on the traverse to anchor. Would be a bad fall.
By Khash
May 27, 2017

Did this route on May.26.2017. The third pitch (5.9 run out) was pretty dirt, I had to clean my holds with the brush as I go up, might have been the first ascent of the season.
Just a few notes, the 5.9 pitch has a bolt, probably 6-7 meters up, still very runout to the anchor, especially the last traverse move; definitely don't wanna fall on this pitch.
Pitch 4 and 5 have 3 bolts eash, pitch 6 has 5 bolts.
By Alexander K
From: The road
Jun 14, 2017

Finally a route that a North Carolinian can be proud of! A few clarifications on the MP beta for those who want to stay on route:

3rd 5.9 pitch: you can either go straight up into the dirtiness and clip a bolt (two if you include the rusted through 1/4 incher) then traverse up and right to the anchor or I suppose you can follow the guidebook beta and climb cleaner but unprotected rock to the right (another "off route" bolt near the top too).

4th 5.10b Pitch (3 bolts): Easiest to get into roof from the right side. My partner placed a marginal piece in the flakes before the roof, fell, ripped it and took a huge fall onto the belay (60 footer?). This was the scariest part of the route for us, maybe because it was a little wet. #1-#2 camalots in roof.

5th 5.10c Pitch (3 bolts): Don't go up and left after you clip the 3rd bolt as described above (though there is an anchor on the face here for a different route that's not in the selected climbs guidebook) instead go up and right to an anchor around the arete, you can't see it until you are on top of it. This was the only point where I got us off route.

6th 5.9 pitch: Not as well protected as described above. Climb the arete clipping bolts to protect the harder moves. One BD 0.3-0.4 was nice to help protect some moves on the arete.

7th pitch: Have your impatient euro partner solo past the party of 3 on Diedre, deal with the ensuing cluster.

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