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White Lightning
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White Lightning T 

White Lightning 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle 1979
Page Views: 2,556
Submitted By: Toby on Jun 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Picture of the White Lightning crag taken from the...

Private Property - recently CLOSED TO CLIMBING and all public access. MORE INFO >>>


A very sweet hand crack in a left facing corner. Steep fun Layback crux. Some nice patina jugs at the top.


Located just west of the North Twin Sister, on the south side of a gap in the ridge. Belay in a cool pool on top. Down-climb off the right side.


Hand/ big hand sized cams and a few aliens or small stoppers for the top.

Photos of White Lightning Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the route as we were hiking in to it. The ...
BETA PHOTO: View of the route as we were hiking in to it. The ...
Rock Climbing Photo: White Lightning 5.10
White Lightning 5.10

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2016
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 1, 2010

Useful info from the '06 Bingham guidebook:

"...located just west of the North Twin Sister, on the south side of a gap in the ridge."

"One of the classic layback/jam climbs of the City."
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
May 24, 2011

Great Route, sucks up #2 and #3 camalots. Used a number 4 after pulling the roof and glad to have it.
By Sean A Smith
From: South Salt Lake, UT
May 16, 2012

What a great pitch! The formation is super easy to find as it's visible and obvious from the two track road as you walk in.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 26, 2012

Far better than all the other 10a's I did this trip. White Lightning was much more sustained as an actual crack climb than others since - and unlike much City climbing - there are hardly any face holds, just overhanging jamming and only a tiny bit of patina scrambling at the top.

If you like waiting in line for overrated moderates, go to Bloody Fingers, etc.. If you like excellent climbing in an uncrowded, remote feeling setting, then this is your jam.

I used a #4 camalot I'd back cleaned, a #3 camalot, and a yellow alien-sized piece for the anchor, so you may not want to expend all these pieces. #2 and #1 actually work very well to protect the climbing if placed in the right sections.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sustained, bring every #3 camalot you own, more of a lieback than a jam, awkward and dirty. Could use some cleaning, otherwise fun climbing! Fixed Hex at diagonal lieback section.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 28, 2012

More of a lieback than a jam crack? I guess you can lieback any crack if you want but I found the reverse to be true on this climb. Although, the crux (for me) was liebacking out of the overhanging hand jam roof. Different strokes, or, er, jams I guess.

Also, I did not find the crack to need cleaning or to require more than two #3 cams.

We'll have to bring our dispute to the route setter on this one.
By josh holcomb
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 14, 2012

I found a camera out here about a week ago. If you are looking for it the camera is in the lost and found at the visitor center.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 5, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Colonel, you've got some big mitts my friend and know how to jam a widish crack! When I climbed this route, there happened to be a slight covering of moss. Maybe it was because it had rained a day or two prior.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 12, 2012

Nah, just normal-sized mitts, Alex. I was able to reach through or jam deeply in the wider sections, maybe arm barring the one really wide pod near the beginning. I dunno, it just seemed more hand jam oriented to me and pretty pure compared to other City routes. But I have a lot of experience at that wide hand size, and there's definitely more than one way to climb most climbs. Cheers!

BTW, I was just browsing one of the climbing mags and this route was featured as one of the underground classics at the City. Couldn't agree more!
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Aug 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pure hand-jams all the way up to the traverse. Although they were pretty tipped out hands (my knuckles were feeling it). Go deep in the crack and you'll find them.

I placed a #3 halfway in the left traverse roof. It held my two 10ft falls! The way I did the traverse was I hand jammed the first 1/3, then transitioned to a lie-back when the edge got more positive. That's the great thing about this route, is the edge that you're lie-backing on only gets better the further you get! Amazing.

Small gear for the top section. And I built my anchor in a crack at the top (in a little pod that overlooks the top half of the route) with a #1, #2, and #3. So maybe leave the #4 at home! That thing is heavy.
By jomey
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Oct 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Personal gear beta on this:
2x #0.75, 2x #1, 2x #2, blue DMM Walnut for the top move

Did not place a single #3. Only helpful for building an anchor at the top.
By Roberta Andruska
Aug 12, 2016

This area is closed to the public. It is trespassing if you travel out there. Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb here until further notice.

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