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White Eye 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 375', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Michael Layton and James Garrett, Fall 2008
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Nov 15, 2015

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Description 

P1: Paddle up the low angle slab passing 3 bolts at various cruxes. The climbing is extremely easy but very loose in spots and with minimal protection. A two bolt anchor with tat awaits.

P2: Walk up to the rib with bolts then edge and smear your way up past the 5.8 crux. The climbing eases off to a two bolt anchor.

P3: Wander right up a runnel before cutting back left onto the slab. Pass a lone bolt before running into the two bolt anchor. No chains there as of 11/15 so bring some tat and rings or a couple leaver biners.

Location 

Look on the right side of the southern face of the main formation. The route starts on the lowest part of the formation just left of a major gully system. A couple shiny bolts help you find the start.

Rap off the top with a 70M rope or walk off to the east and then back south.

Protection 

Quickdraws were sufficient. It's very runout but the climbing in between the difficult sections is so absurdly easy it would be a waste of time to place gear. No more than 4 quickdraws are needed for any pitch.


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