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White Eye, pitch 1 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FA Steve Arsenault, Sam Streibert FFA Mark Hudon
Page Views: 1,174
Submitted By: bayard russell jr on Aug 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The first trad route right of the cave, beginning just right of Molsen's Madness (the obvious right to left traversing bolted crack). Climb from the right side of the cave onto a large ledge. Getting off the ledge is the crux of the route, followed by some great crack climbing after a traverse left crimping across a flake. Follow the crack to a fixed pin anchor.


There are a couple of fixed nuts, but its a trad route. Bring a long-dong LA to hand place in the traverse flake - bomber.

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 25, 2008

A pretty tough route with a hard cranking start. I found the upper part after the traverse to be kinda hard too, though fixed nuts would certainly help. Nice climb, the upper two pitches are really good too but are best approached on rap
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 25, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice contribution, and a kick-ass pitch. I think that the top of the pitch is at least as difficult as the start, and there weren't any fixed nuts on my attempts.. Perhaps not if both sections were encountered with fresh arms, but on a lead attempt, the top feels harder to me. The LA beta sounds like good advice. I'm still not sure how, but I whipped off the end of the traverse in 2001 (where the holds are good) and narrowly missed getting injured when I impacted the ledge below. I believe Rob Frost has footage of that bumbling bit of climbing (and falling). I hope to redpoint someday......
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 30, 2013

By S. Neoh
Jan 30, 2013

Lost Arrow? Hand place one to be bomber? How?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 30, 2013

ahhhh, thanks :)
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 31, 2013

I wish i had thought of the hand placed pin, i used a hook. It's not absolutely needed, but the traverse is not that easy and the gear at the end is good but strenno to place.
Just a killer,demanding pitch,, a fight to the end
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 31, 2013

upper pitches do look cool. Sneoh-i'm guessing this flake is like the one on the second pitch of ? (drawing a blank, left of mordor) With the direction of fall and how the pin cams itself in, can be way bomber. Especially if there is an existing pin placement for it to go into, it would be pretty diesel. Always wanted to try this pitch.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 31, 2013

Yout thinking Finale p2 nothing fixed except the copper junk.
Whit Eye upper is great 11+ stemming on great rock with good gear.

For this to be the first Cathedral 12 is amazing to me,, the crux has finger injury potetial and the rest is just tough
By samuel von hammerstien
Oct 15, 2013

you would just slot the pin in and since you were below it and if you fall, it would cam in. then when you stood up on the flake and placed gear it would pull out. that was the idea at least. there's one in there right now, it got stuck and it was only hand/foot placed.

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