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White Dwarf 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Paul Heyliger, Chris Heyliger 7/88
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Dec 12, 2001

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  • Description 

    This is the bolted face to the right of "Ohmer's Odyssey". This is "old-style" bolted face climbing - long runouts with serious groundfall potential in the event of bolt or belay failure. I don't recall if the bolts were 1/4" or 3/8", but considering the vintage of the route, I suspect the former.

    Protection 

    Three bolts, no fixed anchors.


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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 13, 2001
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    Can't recall what the bolts were, but I was never for fear of one breaking on me when I did the route a few years ago. I think that they were pretty good. If I recall correctly, the crux was some thin stuff at the beginning of the route.
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Jan 3, 2002

    When I climbed this a couple years ago, I spent a lot of time and energy trying to boulder out the moves to the firtst bolt. I kept getting to about one move shy of clipping. Scary; it would be a long hike back to the car with a broken ankle. Finally I gave up and ferreted out a very long branch to stick clip the bolt. This is definitely the way to go, as the crux is gaining the bolt, and clipping it is in the middle of one of the hardest moves. Maybe this was drilled from a hook placement? With a stick clip the climb becomes enjoyable. I recall 3/8" bolts. If this was more thoughtfully bolted, it would deserve two stars, as the climbing is high quality, on great edges. Anyone know who did the first ascent?
    By M. Morley
    Administrator
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Apr 4, 2007

    Crux is getting to the first bolt. A fall between bolts 2 and 3 would potentially result in a ground fall.

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