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White Dream
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Cryin' on the Corner T 
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White Dream Slab T 

White Dream Slab 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Joe Herbst, Jorge Urioste early 70s
Season: Not Summer
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: DesertDan on Aug 25, 2015

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Description 

Start from the lowest point of the cliff at the bottom of the wide white streak and climb easy low angle slabs till they end.

P1) Gain the steeper slabs above this staying about a third of the way across the face from the dihedral that marks the left side of the white rock and continue towards the head wall. Easy 5.10 climbing on slick polished granite with protection every 15-20' in horizontal cracks and one-off seams give this pitch a spicy flavor. Find a belay spot below the head wall and the shallow groove/water streak.

P2) Below the water streak, the head wall dips to its lowest point. The only two bolts on the route are found here: one below this dip and the second just onto the head wall. Follow the water streak on the near vertical rock for thirty pro-less feet over the low angle slabs bellow. This is the crux, 5.10, and a fall here would be bad. Plug some gear and belay or continue up more low angle run out slabs take you to near the top. Surmount the last slightly overhanging 10' to reach the top.

Descend to the right by hiking and scrambling around the south side of the cliff.

Location 

Start from the lowest point of the cliff at the bottom of the wide white streak.

Protection 

Standard Keyhole Rack


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