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White Buffalo 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 350', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Collins, Kent McBride
Season: Summer
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Gee Double on Jun 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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South Face Wolfshead, Cirque of Towers: Red=Red Cl...

Description 

Splitter Crack in South Face with no bottom.
Start Becky Route, 5.7 warm up pitch. Some fix at belay. 35+m
P2: climb up and left, then improbable face, 5.12d (or A1) past bolts, into bottom of crack, up widening crack to belay from bolts. 30m
P3: Up hand crack through small roof, belay from bolts 5.11a 33m
P4: Finger and hand crack then a traverse right, 5.11c, then up easier ground. 33m
direct finish is open project, a thin off-set left trending seam, 5.11+? after scrubbing?
Rap route with 70 m rope or continue East Ridge to summit.

Location 

South Face, below white splitter crack. Start Becky Route go left past bolts in crack system.

Protection 

2-3 sets fingers to hand size cams, 1 fist size. Quickdraw's, fixed belays. Good rap route.


Photos of White Buffalo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Face, Wolfshead, Wind River Range, Wyoming
BETA PHOTO: South Face, Wolfshead, Wind River Range, Wyoming

Comments on White Buffalo Add Comment
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By dameeser
From: denver
Aug 9, 2016

We climbed the first 3 pitches of Canus into White Buffalo. That seemed like the way to do it - every pitch was mouthwatering! Who does not want to climb a mega corner into a short OW into 300+ft of fingers and hands?! Seriously, this route was great. If you cant climb the traverse pitch it's well worth it to pull on the bolts to access the crack above.

The direct finish can go free at what felt like 5.11 climbing. It looks intimidating, which is why I chose to take the piton traverse, but it protects with small cams and rps. When I threw my rope down it did not feel any harder then the piton traverse, which is kind of sketchy anyway. That piton will likely bend halfway over the first time someone falls on it. Don't be scared though - you will be fine.

Thanks to the FA teams for putting these two routes together.

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