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Central (Blooming Rose, Claim Jumper, and Winchester Walls)
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White Buffalo 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

Type:  Sport, Boulder, 19'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: BJ Tilden, 1998
Page Views: 894
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 24, 2013

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Beginning the crux sequence.


The White Buffalo is a stunning, house-sized boulder nestled among the pines of the Wild Iris campground. The virtually flawless southeast face overhangs about 5 degrees, and is among the most beautiful panels of limestone in the Lander area.

Although obviously lacking in length, this line features 7 or 8 sustained, difficult moves, making this climb as continuous as many of the other .13+ lines at Wild Iris. The climbing itself is outstanding, though out of character, utlizing miniscule edges and only a few pockets.

Begin with the only easy moves on the route, up an obvious flake feature. Work right to a diagonal rail, then a pair of long cranks to polished edges. The crux comes at the second bolt, with an insecure sequence to reach a deep pocket. A few desparate moves off slippery feet lead to the lip. It should take longer to read this page than it will to send the line!


The White Buffalo sits atop the fourth (or so) campground on the left side of the road, or about 100-feet south of the Blooming Rose Wall.


This 3-bolt route has been bouldered with a hefty stack of crash pads, but most folks will be happy to clip the bolts. 1-bolt anchor, or 4th-class down-climb of the east arete.

Photos of White Buffalo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunning for the lip.
Gunning for the lip.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the start...or is it the end?  The stunning Whi...
At the start...or is it the end? The stunning Whi...

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