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White Bronco 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nutting/Wolfe 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015

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The Colonel pulling down on the crux.

Description 

Just to the right of "Slow-speed Chase". An imposing roof move above the first bolt prompted us to install a fixed draw for the crux. Look for the "golden draw" at the second clip.

Climb up an easy ramp to make a clip under a roof. Position yourself for the fixed clip just above the roof, then "ride the bronco" to bolts above.
Some mixed but well-protected 5.10 climbing above keeps the interest, as does the final dihedral to the anchors.

Location 

Start under the rightmost roof at the base of the buttress.

Protection 

8 bolts, gear to .5", Mussy hooks.

Lower off.


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By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
May 23, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Like that infamous news day, the White Bronco proved to be an exciting diversion.

The start gave me an adrenaline goose that kept on giving all the way up this climb, which is fairly sustained and thoughtful all the way to the anchors.

I'm hesitant taking the 5.11b onsight on this rig, I think the grade may be more in the 5.10d to 5.11a range but that will await consensus. Honestly, I was so worked up for the initial roof moves, I couldn't be relied on for an accurate grade.

A couple small/medium nuts and a yellow C3 were nice supplemental gear for me. Otherwise, this is another very well equipped and nice addition to a fun crag.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
May 23, 2016

By consensus, I lowered the grade to 5.11a - thanks for all the feed-back.
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
May 26, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I'm ok with 11a grade if that's what people think. Not sure about 10d though, I've done 11b's in the canyon that felt about the same in difficulty. But 11a seems fair.

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