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Whistling Jupiter S 

Whistling Jupiter 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Piana or Todd Skinner (I think)
Page Views: 736
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 2, 2001

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Situated in front of Fall Wall is this amorphic shaped boulder with an incredible sport route up its west face...Stick clip the eye-bolt and figure out how to do the wild, bouldery moves over those way cool knobs (crux). Weave your way past ring bolts and nipple-pinch up interesting terrain to these big horns and the anchor (11b/c and a wee bit sporty). Don't blow the last move!!! Don't even think of doing this line in the afternoon sun...

Protection 

4 QD's, Stick-Clip


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By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
May 24, 2004

FA was Piana. Early '90s. Someone really needs to replace the ring pins with actual bolts on this thing. Otherwise a very cool route with bizarre moves getting past the first big crystal/zit things.
By JayJurkowitsch
From: Laramie,WY
Mar 26, 2007

Skinner worked on this problem just a month after the Salathe route in Yosemite was freed (Sept. [1988]). He still had broken ribs from an accident upon that project's completion. Piana and Heidi Barcardaro also contributed to this Vedauwoo project.
By Mark Rolofson
May 20, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

It has been a very long time since I did this route in 1989. I seem to remember 5 bolts. Are there only 4? After the tricky crux start I remember a .10d /11a run-out section past 3rd (?) bolt to reach a ledge. I also remember a 5.12 second crux finish past the last two bolts.

The climb was originally rated .12c. Skinner & Piana freed the Salathe Wall in 1988 (not 1989).

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