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Whisky River 

Whisky River 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 PG13

   
Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 280', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 PG13 [details]
FA: Sam Lightner, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 2, 2007

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The Whisky Caps

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 ascend to the obvious corner on two studs and thin aid. I needed a toucan and two large peckers to do this, as well as a number of lost arrows and baby angles. The crux is about 35 feet off the ground and your looking at a substantial bit of that air being eaten if a piece pops… you might deck. Don’t worry though… the ground will break your fall. After the pins the crack starts to open up. Go about 160 feet to a really nasty loose block… clip a bolt to get around it then climb up the alcove and onto the slab to the anchor out right.
P2 climb through a chimney then onto a big slab. IT steepens as you go higher. Clip two bolts to get to the summit chimney. Take one set of friends from 2-6.
Rap the route

Location 

Obvious corner on the north face

Protection 


3 sets friends #1-4 with extra #1’s and #1.5’s. I used two baby angles, two mid size lost arrows, a couple of large peckers and a toucan… those things sink to the hilt, but in what?


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