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Whiskey on the Southbound 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Snyder
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: SM Ryan on Jul 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

Like most routes, a slightly chossy start to better climbing. A hard, boulder section at the 1/2 way mark to fun cobble climbing.

Note- one bolt is a little hard to see when you approach it.

Protection 

Bolts/quickdraws


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By Mort
Jun 10, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Interesting that one guide calls it 12b, the other mentions the "very hard crux", and here it's called bouldery. I must have gotten lucky because I thought it had the easiest crux of all the Wiper 12a or 12b routes. Onsighted the crux(es) and then broke a hold at the top.
By SM Ryan
Jul 16, 2015

In my experience, routes will likely get easier at MC overtime. It could be 11d now that holds have chalk, they are clean and not covered in sand, they are solid so the pucker factor is greatly reduced. People go off the bolt-line to find an easier sequence.
By dnoB ekiM
Sep 22, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Two stars as of today, but this could clean up into another 4 star classic over time. It's still quite dirty as of today. I broke 2 holds and kicked off a dozen (per my belayer) small pebbles...so it's cleaner now. The DK guide is pretty spot on...there is a definitive crux midway consisting of slopers. It is between bolt 6 and 7. Bolt 6 is hard to see when you are on route. Do this route and help clean it into a 4 star classic.

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