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Whiskey Crack 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Barlow & Dawson. FFA: Pulaski
Page Views: 3,621
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Apr 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Closer to the top.

Description 

Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon testpieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack, you had arrived.

The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v groove for security, but the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route.

Location 

First Buttress Main Wall (Parking lot wall).
Between the Sun Deck and The Big Roof lies a Straight as an arrow thin crack in a shallow grove. This is the crux pitch of Whiskey Crack.

Protection 

Wired nuts provide good but sometimes difficult to get protection.


Photos of Whiskey Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great route, past the slightly sketchy crux.
Great route, past the slightly sketchy crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Colleen scopes the route ahead. P1 of Whiskey Crac...
Colleen scopes the route ahead. P1 of Whiskey Crac...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Whiskey Crack.
P1 of Whiskey Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Colleen pulls into the crux of P1.
Colleen pulls into the crux of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thinking "outside the slot" at the crux.
Thinking "outside the slot" at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Whiskey Crack.
Looking up Whiskey Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whiskey Crack - the Tom Pulaski 5.10 testpiece.
Whiskey Crack - the Tom Pulaski 5.10 testpiece.

Comments on Whiskey Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Thanks Phil!!!!
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Morkel, Great shots! "past the slightly sketchy crux", I'll say! Your partner looks much more relaxed than I ever was on that thing.
By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2009

Hey thanks, the partner is very reliable. This route is one of those leads that take a little extra time, it seemed anyway. Top notch.
By phil broscovak
Dec 7, 2011

The name for this route comes from a bet. Kenny Marx told Tom Pulaski "If you free it, I'll buy you a bottle of whiskey". Tom did and the rest is hic history.
By Jon Oulton
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Does anyone know if the two pitches can be linked with a 70m rope?
By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Aug 4, 2017

@Jon Oulton

It might be possible, but I think rope drag would be a real problem.
By Jon Oulton
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

For what it's worth, both pitches can be done as a single pitch with a 70m rope. Rope drag wasn't too bad with appropriate sling use. I brought 4 double-length slings and one single-length,. There was about 20 feet of rope left at the top, so the whole thing (both pitches) must be ~220 feet (65m).

Awesome route!

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