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Whiskey and Weed Power S 

Whiskey and Weed Power 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 8/27/04 Greg M, Clark O
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Jeff Olsen on Whiskey & Weed Power

  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description (2 cruxes up high) 

    WWP is another good Martinez route on the right side of Tower 2. The theme is pretty consistent with the other lines up there: long, pumpy, good holds to a devious crux bulge then endure the pump to the chains.
    The crux of this one awaits at the 5th bolt with strange undercling moves to smallish crimps and - gasp! - no feet! A couple of bolts of this nonsense brings you to the sweetest pockets at HelmetGate. Catch a rest there and fire the steep second half looking for more hidden pockets to your left.
    Long draws are useful on the bolts in the middle.

    One can supposedly reach extreme levels of pump by mantling above the anchors on a dirty shelf, bumping the grade to an unprecedented 5.11. Don't do it, there's one of those cool mini-saplings living there and it doesn't need the disturbance. If you do take pics of the belly-flopping downclimb or gnar-jump that will necessarily follow.


    This is the furthest bolted line on the right side of the face of Tower 2. Start below the boulder platform on black rock about 10' R of Insane ITB and 20' R of Deja-Vu. Then go up.


    13 bolts to 2 bolts chain anchor.

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    Comments on Whiskey and Weed Power Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Eric Godfrey
    From: slc, ut
    Jul 24, 2009

    Pretty consistant climbing. Crimpers in between underclings and jugs. Those last couple moves to the chains are rough when you're pumped if you are going for the redpoint
    By Jerome Sharpe
    From: Wanship, UT
    Aug 14, 2011

    Sustained and pumpy.
    By Alex Quitiquit
    From: Salt Lake City
    Sep 18, 2011
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Did anyone leave a camera at the base of this climb today? Message me with the type and color and we can coordinate it's return.
    By Andrewprime1 Arredondo
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 30, 2011
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Climbed this the other day. It was a great route! Ill have to come back and red point it sometime soon. Damn thing was tricky. There are more bolts on it than you can see at first glance, I was short and had to back clean. Beware the last pockets, they are totally not as good as you would want.
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 23, 2013
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Tightly bolted. I certainly didn't feel like the crux was at the 5th bolt, but instead just before the chains. The massive buckets on the upper half provide an opportunity to shake out the pump and regain the requisite energy to make the chains. The problem is, the buckets disappear at the last bolt, and you have to find the right edges to make the chains. Classic.

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