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Whiskey and Success 

Whiskey and Success 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Thomas Townsend, Winter 2013
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jan 16, 2014

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Pablo working the sit

Description 

Great edges, crimps, and slopers up a gently overhanging wall. Now if only the holds were more positive...

Start standing with left hand high on a slanted crimp, and right on a slightly sloping edge. Hike feet up, and lunge up and right to a sloper. If you latch it, then fire left hand up to an open-hand crimp, and top out. Extremely tenuous.

The sit-start remains undone, but Thomas is close (as of January, 2014).

Location 

Starts just left of General Electric. Finishes on sloping edge at the top of General Steampunk.

Protection 

Good paddage.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Feb 22, 2015

After talking to Thomas, the stand-start to this problem seems to be in the V11 range. No one has repeated it, so I can't confirm anything. I've worked the problem a bit, and while I haven't sent this or any other V11, I do find that grade to be appropriate—judging from my experience on other problems. Thomas conjectured that the sit-start seems to be around V12+, hence the attached grade to the problem.

Sorry for the all the disclaimers/vagueness/estimations. Thus is the prospect of grading problems.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 26, 2016

Pablo Hammack repeated the stand-start to this problem recently, and he confirms the V11 rating. You can watch him wrestle this problem (and other gnar stuff) on YouTube. Use your computer-machine accordingly.

Historical/Technical note:

When Thomas did the FA of the stand-start to Whiskey, he finished on the holds of General Steampunk, which exit to the left of the top General Electric. Basically, General Steampunk is a somewhat harder finish variation to General Electric. GE gets a solid V5 rating, and GS might be about V6 in my opinion. Pablo's finish (hereafter known as) climbs the natural passage of features, and seems very logical, but Thomas definitely climbed a slightly different—and possibly harder—line. The question remains: if you climb a V11 crux in to a V5 topout and call the whole problem V11, is it still V11 if you climb the crux in to a V6 topout? I think it is.

I know I'm mincing moves, but in case Thomas is reading this (are you Thomas?), I wanted to at least point out the possible discrepancy. It's possible no one cares, but this is a great problem, and worth repeating by other climbers. When the sit-start goes, expect the whole hillside to ignite in to flames and consume the whole canyon in an inferno of radness.
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 28, 2016

By Duke Lettieri
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 18, 2016
rating: V9 7C


Edit: It was later discovered that the original topout, topping out direct at General Steampunk rather than traversing right into the scoop of General Electric, was easier, direct, and more fun. Definitely top out direct.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 18, 2016

Grade Update:

In recent months, the left starting crimp on Whiskey has been "improved" to such a degree as to drop the grade to somewhere around V9. A number of repeats have confirmed this grade change. The problem is no less quality than before, but the stoutness has dropped.

I'm not pointing fingers or ranting; we've always known that SB holds have a way of changing from aggressive brushing. But I will say that the left hand crimp on this problem has been massively changed from it's original state. It may be that this crimp gradually eroded from responsible brush use. Or maybe it was nefariously enlarged. Who knows.

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