REI Community
3 - Donnie G
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrowhead T 
Whisker Biscuit T 

Whisker Biscuit 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Kennedy, Paul Tiesla
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,539
Submitted By: Ryan Curry on Feb 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Julie Gordon getting ready to sample Whisker Biscu...


With a variety of crack sizes, excellent and easy to place protection and plenty of sun, Whisker Biscuit is a great introduction to Woodfords climbing. Starting above a nice belay clearing climb up to a small ledge and cruise up a fun thin-hands crack that turns briefly to fingers and leads to a prominent roof. Trend right under the roof into a hand crack that splits a bulge (first crux). Pull the bulge and continue up an ever-widening, leaning crack. Stay with the crack as it necks down to tips avoiding the ugly wide crack to the right. Crank a tenuous lieback (second crux), move up 10 more feet and either
A: dart left to a two bolt anchor/rap station above the Arrowhead or
B: continue straight up on 3rd class for about 30 ft. to a two bolt anchor that is located above the east-facing Walking Jack (5.10+) and lower down that climb. This may require a 70 meter rope.


This route is located 15' right of Arrowhead's "stalactite". As described above, there are two options for descent, both involving bolted rap anchors.


From 3/8" to 3". Doubles of 2"-3". 3/8" cams protect the second crux so some may want doubles of those, also.

Comments on Whisker Biscuit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 19, 2010

Doesn't look like much from the ground but actually offers fairly excellent climbing.
By Patrick Mulligan
Nov 24, 2013

Amazing hand jams with a strong move around a roof. There are two fixed camalots on this thing a #2 that you can't clip at the roof and the #3 mid way up the hand crack.
By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 19, 2015

Did the wide crack variation on the right this weekend. Its a move or two of 5.8 off hands (#4 camalot is perfect) then just romp to the top of Walking Jack. Its a fun alternative that is more physical and more secure than the tenuous layback going left.
By Ben Snow
From: San Diego, Ca
Dec 29, 2016

Pretty fun climb, felt it was pretty easy for 5.9 if you can power over the roof okay. Definitely climb arrowhead after, its fantastic

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About