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Whisker Biscuit 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Kennedy, Paul Tiesla
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,539
Submitted By: Ryan Curry on Feb 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Julie Gordon getting ready to sample Whisker Biscu...

Description 

With a variety of crack sizes, excellent and easy to place protection and plenty of sun, Whisker Biscuit is a great introduction to Woodfords climbing. Starting above a nice belay clearing climb up to a small ledge and cruise up a fun thin-hands crack that turns briefly to fingers and leads to a prominent roof. Trend right under the roof into a hand crack that splits a bulge (first crux). Pull the bulge and continue up an ever-widening, leaning crack. Stay with the crack as it necks down to tips avoiding the ugly wide crack to the right. Crank a tenuous lieback (second crux), move up 10 more feet and either
A: dart left to a two bolt anchor/rap station above the Arrowhead or
B: continue straight up on 3rd class for about 30 ft. to a two bolt anchor that is located above the east-facing Walking Jack (5.10+) and lower down that climb. This may require a 70 meter rope.

Location 

This route is located 15' right of Arrowhead's "stalactite". As described above, there are two options for descent, both involving bolted rap anchors.

Protection 

From 3/8" to 3". Doubles of 2"-3". 3/8" cams protect the second crux so some may want doubles of those, also.


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By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 19, 2010

Doesn't look like much from the ground but actually offers fairly excellent climbing.
By Patrick Mulligan
Nov 24, 2013

Amazing hand jams with a strong move around a roof. There are two fixed camalots on this thing a #2 that you can't clip at the roof and the #3 mid way up the hand crack.
By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 19, 2015

Did the wide crack variation on the right this weekend. Its a move or two of 5.8 off hands (#4 camalot is perfect) then just romp to the top of Walking Jack. Its a fun alternative that is more physical and more secure than the tenuous layback going left.
By Ben Snow
From: San Diego, Ca
Dec 29, 2016

Pretty fun climb, felt it was pretty easy for 5.9 if you can power over the roof okay. Definitely climb arrowhead after, its fantastic

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