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Whirlwind 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling, Nick Watts 1996
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

An excellent route that climbs quality friction slabs into a burly overhanging crack toward the end.
Pitches 1-4 do not require any gear, except a few finger sized pieces for the 10b variation on p3
The route is well protected for a slab, but a bit spicy at times

p1 (10c) - climb the bolted slab, taking the right fork when you have the option

p2 (10b) - follow the bolts! more slab

p3 (10b/11a) - Follow bolts left, then climb up the slab and head back right to a tree belay. A bit dirty.
The 11a 'Buckets Ahoy' variation is much better and follows bolts directly up the slab.

p4 (10c) - traverse the ledge leftward to reach a bolted anchor and the start of p4.
Climb a bolted slabby arete to a bolt anchor.

p5 (10b) - traverse right and drop onto the next slab by a tree. Climb boldly up the slab (bolts) or else go straight up the dirty corner. Gear anchor at the base of the overhanging corner.

p6 (10c) - climb the rad overhanging crack. Belay at the top of the crack and exit right for the standard finish, or skip the belay and exit left if you want to climb a rad roof crack (Voodoo Amour, 11d)

p7 (5.9) - pad up the slab to the top

Descent:
Walk left to an easy crack, and follow it up to
Broadway ledge. Walk right off Broadway ledge to the standard apron descent, or climb more stuff to the top!

Location 

To find the start of the route, park at the Apron parking lot. Head up the trail that goes into the forest just past the outhouse, trending left on the trail. You'll reach a slabby right-leaning groove at the base of the apron (that leads to Snake) - instead of going up the V groove, go left along the trail. 20m left of the groove, hike up a dead tree ramp to reach the start of a bolted slab.

Protection 

Camalots:
.3 to 2 (2x)
3 (1x)
4 (optional)


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