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Motherlode Rock - North Face
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Whiptail 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Nathan Mitts & Pete Paredes, July 2001
Page Views: 2,604
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 8, 2006

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On the slabby section before the arete at Whiptail

Description 

The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.

Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off a good left hand in a shallow corner as your right hand pinches the arete to gain a horizontal (the Lizard's mouth) and then the anchors (these last moves are somewhat reachy).

Good exposure, enjoyable movement and quality rock make this a route to seek out on this portion of Motherlode Rock.

Location 

Right side of the north face on the obvious sharp arete.

Protection 

4 bolts, sport anchors


Photos of Whiptail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Smackdown (5.8) on the left and Whiptail (5.9) on ...
BETA PHOTO: Smackdown (5.8) on the left and Whiptail (5.9) on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kissing the Lizard
Kissing the Lizard
Rock Climbing Photo: Reptar
Reptar
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah Cookson leading Whiptail.  This is her first...
Sarah Cookson leading Whiptail. This is her first...
Rock Climbing Photo: Whiptail (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
BETA PHOTO: Whiptail (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Rock Climbing Photo: the Lizard snares another unsuspecting meal...  Ch...
the Lizard snares another unsuspecting meal... Ch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet Medby nearing the crux of Whiptail.
Janet Medby nearing the crux of Whiptail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Obi deciding whether to clip in or backflip.
Obi deciding whether to clip in or backflip.

Comments on Whiptail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Confusing finish ???? Seems like it should take the extreme right side and finish up past the Lizard's right side of its mouth. Better moves although a bit dirty.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

For setting up a TR it would have been nice if this climb had its own set of anchors (the Lizard could use a nose ring ;-) But there's something fun about letting the Lizard swallow your right arm while you fuss with the anchor. Great climb!
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Anchor has two sport clippers, so you can just clip and lower.
By Bailey Miller
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I guess I am not the only one that ended up on the right side of the arete. That felt like the natural progression of the line, but makes the finish a lot more... interesting when you have to traverse back around to the anchors.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Mar 6, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome climb! My favorite one in this area. The green lichen-covered face to on the right-side is very cool to climb past. Staying on the arete brings a great sense of exposure. Hand jam the top horizontal crack for an easy finish.
By Sean Haynes
May 22, 2017

We really need to stop top roping through those anchors. They are worn out and will need replacing soon with how popular this area is.

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