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Whippoorwill

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aimee's Jugs S 
Back to the Known S 
Bender S 
Blaze Got a New Job S 
Blimey S 
Bongo S 
Charlotte Corner T 
Ching, Chang, Chong S 
Cowboy in the Dirt S 
Cowboy Love T 
Crescent Corner T 
Don Miron S 
Flight of the Kiwi T 
Flounder S 
Gimme a Clown S 
Hat Change S 
Holy Mackerel  T 
How Could Hell Be Any Worse? S 
Jason and the Arguenots S 
Java T 
Jay's Corner T 
Johnny Bravo S 
Jowiki S 
Latch Key Kids S 
Logos S 
Masuko S 
Mojo Jojo Crack T 
Morse Code S 
Nonameyet S 
Pat-Agonia S 
Pondless S 
Six Gun Serenade T 
Straight Outta Lockmont S 
Tacos Pescados S 
Unholy Mackerel T,TR 
Unnamed crack T 
Wafer S 
Waverly S 
Wendy's Jugs S 
Where have All the Gay Cowboys Gone? T 
Whinerlamer S 

Whippoorwill Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.2338, -80.8552 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,929
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Aug 18, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

30°
Thursday

36° | 21°
Friday

26° | 18°
Saturday

31° | 22°
Sunday

41° | 32°
Monday

40° | 26°
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Nuria getting a sweet swim-up start

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent climbing area. Deep-water soloing is available during the warmer months when the water is up. From October - April the water is usually down and you some incredible sport and trad routes are displayed.

An easy approach and can be quite crowded on weekends. There is a lot of route development going on here so make sure you are on the correct route.

The link below can be used to see the levels of the water.

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?basi...

Don Miron, Masuko, Noanmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are accessible when the level is at 1625 or less. At 1625 most of the other routes are all still inaccessible.

Getting There 

Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Whippoorwill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whippoorwill:
Aimee's Jugs   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Wendy's Jugs   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   
Bongo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cowboy in the Dirt   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Holy Mackerel    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   
Gimme a Clown   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Straight Outta Lockmont   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   
Whinerlamer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Ching, Chang, Chong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   
Johnny Bravo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Latch Key Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Masuko   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Nonameyet   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Flounder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Blaze Got a New Job   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pat-Agonia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Don Miron   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bender   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tacos Pescados   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jason and the Arguenots   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whippoorwill

Featured Route For Whippoorwill
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking cool on crux #1

Latch Key Kids 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Whippoorwill
Sustained route with approximately 4 different 5.10a cruxes throughout....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Whippoorwill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: An awesome cairn that some people have made this y...
An awesome cairn that some people have made this y...
Rock Climbing Photo: Whippoorwill
Whippoorwill
Rock Climbing Photo: Facing Masuko.
Facing Masuko.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.
Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.

Comments on Whippoorwill Add Comment
Show which comments
By amarius
Oct 21, 2014
Don Miron, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level

Edit - fixed typo, thanks!
By zachj
Feb 29, 2016
There are several new routes up on the Aimee's Jugs/Wendy's Jugs wall. I will provide some details here based on the reports I have received, but if someone has better info please expand on this:

5.10a(?) - About 3ft L of Wendy's Jugs - harder moves to first two bolts then great holds on overhanging route to the top. I believe it is 6 bolts to its own set of anchors.

5.8 - About 2 ft R of Aimee's Jugs. I believe it is shorter and fewer bolts than Aimee's Jugs. Has its own set of anchors.

5.10+ - Starts just L from Straight outta Lockmont (5.9) under smallish roof. Climbs up dirty face to cool pockets and small roof. Not sure on the number of bolts, but has its own anchors.

5.11+ - Climbs just L of this new 5.10+. Similar start and then detours L around first bolt. Not sure on number of bolts or anchors.