Whippoorwill Rock Climbing
Nuria getting a sweet swim-up start
An excellent climbing area. Deep-water soloing is available during the warmer months when the water is up. From October - April the water is usually down and you some incredible sport and trad routes are displayed.
An easy approach and can be quite crowded on weekends. There is a lot of route development going on here so make sure you are on the correct route.
The link below can be used to see the levels of the water. lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?basi...
Don Miron, Masuko, Noanmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are accessible when the level is at 1625 or less. At 1625 most of the other routes are all still inaccessible.
Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
45 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Whippoorwill
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whippoorwill
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whippoorwill:
Bongo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Jowiki 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Masuko 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Flounder 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 50'
Nonameyet 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Don Miron 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Bender 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Whippoorwill
Masuko 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c West Virginia
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Whippoorwill
This is a very high quality route. It may be quite challenging if 5.11a is your limit. The first bolt is quite high (20 feet), consider stick clipping it. Start by climbing straight up passing the first bolt to reach the overhang. Pass the overhang on the left side following a flake. Diagonal up and right to reach a nice rest in a horizontal. From here, go straight up on some small and sloping holds aiming for a jug about 5 feet to the right of the next bolt (crux). From here, diag...[more] Browse More Classics in West Virginia
An awesome cairn that some people have made this y...
View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.
From: Nowhere, OK
Oct 21, 2014
Don Miron, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level
Edit - fixed typo, thanks!
Feb 29, 2016
There are several new routes up on the Aimee's Jugs/Wendy's Jugs wall. I will provide some details here based on the reports I have received, but if someone has better info please expand on this:
5.10a(?) - About 3ft L of Wendy's Jugs - harder moves to first two bolts then great holds on overhanging route to the top. I believe it is 6 bolts to its own set of anchors.
5.8 - About 2 ft R of Aimee's Jugs. I believe it is shorter and fewer bolts than Aimee's Jugs. Has its own set of anchors.
5.10+ - Starts just L from Straight outta Lockmont (5.9) under smallish roof. Climbs up dirty face to cool pockets and small roof. Not sure on the number of bolts, but has its own anchors.
5.11+ - Climbs just L of this new 5.10+. Similar start and then detours L around first bolt. Not sure on number of bolts or anchors.