|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, 650', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Doc Bayne, Mark Lassiter, Nick Williams - 1993|
|Submitted By:||andjoely on Sep 24, 2010|
|Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Whippin' Boy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Columbia, SC
Mar 14, 2011
P2. Harder down low for sure. Go straight up through lichen covered holds on the face just right of the corner. You can traverse right as well, maybe slightly easier.
P3. Amazing face climbing pitch. Unfolds effortlessly. Small Offset cams useful. Generally trends up and to the left from P2 belay.
P4. JUGS JUGS JUGS. Trend up and left before pulling an ackward mantle onto a small ledge just under the overhang. Rest up and move past two bolts down low protecting the technical crux. Keep moving on big holds and snag the third bolt. Dance right and left following the big holds leading up to the fourth bolt and the seam 10 ft above. No move is specifically hard but this packs one hell of a pump!
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Nov 15, 2011
P2 - Almost 200 feet to the good ledge with bolt. Great belay.
P3 - Awesome face climbing pitch. Decent gear. Yes on offsets - money piece.
P4 - Super Pumpy! Another long pitch if you go all the way to the second ledge. Great belay. Just right of the OR traverse pitch.
P5 - Should be able to see bolt at the flake.
P6 - One 5.9 move and lots of lichen gets you to the top.
Great, safe route!
By Derek DeBruin
Mar 15, 2014
Was on Whippin' Boy today. I too noticed the loose nut on the second bolt of the .11d pitch when I got there, but I totally spaced on a wrench or even using a nut-tool to tighten it. I hand-tightened it on the way by. But that thing could use a turn or two with a wrench for sure.
Unfortunately, we also left a stopper (unintentionally) at the base of P2 in the thin crack on the OR ledge just below the fixed pin. If anyone can get that thing out, please do. I hate fixing gear.
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 11, 2016
|You guys and your hybrids. The third pitch took tri-cams nicely instead of hybrids. A couple of the spots hybrids will be more secure, but not mandatory. The second pitch could use an update on the fixed hardware. Everything was rusted. The loose bolt on the crux is a hopeless cause. The way the directional is from the next bolt, it will never stay tight. The crux pitch was fun. Like everyone has said, they are all jugs at the last two bolts. Just keep wandering to stay on them. Derek your nut has been unfixed.|