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Whipped Cream 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Beh
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Jun 17, 2017

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It is 5.10 to the anchor.

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  • Description 

    Whipped Cream can be climbed from the ground using the same staging area and initial scramble as for Sooper Kr33m. Use a double length sling on the low first bolt to reduce rope drag. Or you can set up a belay with a red and a gold Camalot at a good stance below it on the Undertow ledge. I used the ledge belay when I sent the route. There is less rope drag at the crux, but it isn't that much of a difference climbing from the ground...if you have the double sling for the first bolt.

    The route begins with a few 5.10 moves to a short 5.12 crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Body tension and techy foot beta are key. Thuggy climbing on mostly big holds leads to a big jug rest at the 7th bolt. You can cycle here as long as you want before heading up into the business.

    Progressively harder moves lead to a definitive crux move and redpoint crux at the 10th bolt. The money move is a BIG dead point to a half pad, positive edge. It is 5.10 and one more bolt to the top after the crux move.

    The small hold to complete the crux is hard to see without a tick mark on it. I had to keep marking it after rain washed it off even after numerous burns. I left a double draw on the 11th bolt. This will allow you to dog through this move if you can't do it or if you need help finding the hold you want. Please leave the double draw there.

    Location 

    Whipped Cream is just to the right of the uber classic Sooper Kr33m.

    Protection 

    12 bolts and 2 anchor bolts.


    Photos of Whipped Cream Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The big, jug rest.
    The big, jug rest.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Easy clip at the crux.
    Easy clip at the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The low 5.12 move at the third bolt.
    The low 5.12 move at the third bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the steep bulge that leads to the crux...
    Starting up the steep bulge that leads to the crux...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the crux move.
    Setting up for the crux move.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
    At the crux.

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