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Whiplash 

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder, 9'
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 651
Submitted By: Logan Hamilton on Aug 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Afternoon session.

Description 

Sit-start the steep wall of few holds. Three really hard moves get you to jug, a mere 8 feet of the deck.

Protection 

Pads


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By Ben Parsons
Aug 2, 2014

Not sure, but I recall the FA belonging to Wills Young.
By Logan Hamilton
From: Vanlife
Aug 2, 2014

I too thought Wills had the FA but was not sure.
By Bob Banks
Jul 3, 2015

Yes, Wills did the FA in late 1996 early '97. Several years passed before it saw a second ascent and a shitload of people tried it.

Also, the sidepull hold for the left did not exist until sometime in the last few years. I mean, it existed, but it was not anything remotely possible to hold onto. I'm not saying it was chipped, but it wasn't useable like it is now (and yes, we tried). So take that into consideration. Not sure how people are doing the problem now, but there's tons of chalk on that 'hold' and in the photo here on Mountain Project, Logan is using 'it'.
By Sean Crozier
From: Oxnard, CA
Sep 30, 2015

As far I could tell there were two ways of going about this one:
1)Move to shitty crimp with right hand, then adjust your left hand in the hueco so it an undercling and move again with the right to the good slot. Really hard.
2)Climb it using the normal holds. Huecos, pinch, shitty crimp, undercling, slot. Also really hard, but this way has cooler foot moves.

Never could use that other sidepull. Maybe I didn't try hard enough.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
May 25, 2016

Nice work Pablo! I knew I should have skipped breakfast the other day. Would have been great to watch this go down.


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