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Whip Tide S 

Whip Tide 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Squibb, Mallery, Andrew, 1989
Page Views: 11,781
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006  with updates from Jonathan Corriveau

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Timmy D enjoying an incredible new england summer ...

Description 

Whip Tide climbs up the central inside corner of the cliff. However, this corner is guarded by a bouldery overhang at the bottom and a giant roof at the top. The pump crux, topping out, has given many a climber trouble, but grabbing the chains is a definite faux pas.

Climb up the ladder to the ledge. Whip Tide is the farthest left route starting off the ledge. Stems and the sneaky use of an undercling allow establishment in the corner. From here, relatively moderate, but spicy stemming leads to the roof. Fear not, as the roof holds are some of the biggest in Rumney. Traverse right across the roof and top out.

Originally graded 5.12c, the crux of the route involved a very powerful cross through from a gaston in order to enter the corner. The newer undercling beta may have taken the sting out of the grade.

Protection 

13 bolts


Photos of Whip Tide Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: stemming
stemming
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin whipping on whip tide from the roof...
kevin whipping on whip tide from the roof...
Rock Climbing Photo: clipping on the roof...
clipping on the roof...
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin starting up the corner
kevin starting up the corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Conway just past the crux on Whip Tide, as the...
Jay Conway just past the crux on Whip Tide, as the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam playing twister to get through the crux.
Sam playing twister to get through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte approaching the roof. The chains can be seen...
Kayte approaching the roof. The chains can be seen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the Whip Tide Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the Whip Tide Dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Chick from Maine finishing Whip Tide
Chick from Maine finishing Whip Tide
Rock Climbing Photo: resting at the half way point
resting at the half way point
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the bulge crux, Kayte Knower contemplates the...
Past the bulge crux, Kayte Knower contemplates the...

Comments on Whip Tide Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 23, 2015
By George Squibb
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2006

It was a long time ago, but I think we originally graded it .12b
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 29, 2006

The most recent guidebook has it at 12c, but I would agree with 12b. Technosurfing is at least as hard as Whip Tide, if not harder, and Techno's 12b.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The victory whip from the top is not to be missed.... I found the whipper to be at least as fun as the climb itself....

To take the whip:
1. don't clip the chains...
2. have your belayer pay out a bit of extra slack...
3. walk the plank...

You will hit the wall but not too hard at all...have fun....
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Feb 7, 2008

new project for mike?....i think so!.... take the whiper eh!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 8, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

good proj for you mike... work out the boulder problem start then crush it...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Feb 17, 2008

oh it will be crushed
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 14, 2010

Try as I might, I couldn't seem to make that lower crux getting into the corner feel any easier than a legit V5 (12c)... guess I needed someone to show me the sneaky undercling beta. I found this route way harder than Technosurfing.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

perhaps ill get some video some day.... till then watch people do it and steal beta... it really does get easier the more you figure it out...
By Mike Willig
Nov 7, 2010

Watched a guy free solo this today...made it look like 5.6. Impressive as hell.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Timmy Deroehn? Man, I wish he would stop doing that. It is impressive how he has those routes wired, but I would hate to see or hear that he splattered. The odds aren't good if you keep doing that, no matter how good you are. Frankly, it always seems a little odd when people solo with others around.
By Mike Willig
Nov 8, 2010

I don't think that was his last name...I could be wrong. It was only my partner and I there....so it wasn't crowded...and it was clear that he had no intention of trying to impress anyone. In fact, when his friends showed up, he put on his harness.
By Hannah W
May 20, 2011

I think another factor in how this climb feels different for different people is that I think the crux favors people with shorter legs - you just fit into the dihedral better (I know, I'm waiting to hear the dissenting voices). I'd never climbed v4 outside when I sent this climb (still haven't sent any v4s as a matter of fact), and although it took a lot of effort to send it, i was able to figure out a good sequence in the end.

I think it's far more important in the crux to look at your feet as well, the undercling is key but it won't do any good if you don't put your feet right. before i sent the climb i had it exactly figured out where to put my feet with numerous different foot switches in the short 20 foot crux. you just have to figure out a way to use the opposition forces in the dihedral to your advantage.

kayte knower had the best beta for the climb, it really helped me out so if you see her maybe ask her?
By Mike Willig
Jan 12, 2012

Video of Tim Deroehn Free Soloing RT...

By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Nov 8, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Classic. Perhaps it's the gym climbing's fault, but this felt wildly more difficult than Techno. Bring your full bag of tricks.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Nov 10, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have seen many climbers in the 5.13 range getting spanked in the starting crux. Follow Lee's advice and have someone to show you the beta. If executed well, it feels quite easy. If you grade this route according to the onsight difficulty, it could be 5.13b but in my opinion, the grade should always be established according to the easiest way to climb it. After climbing Whip-Tide, Man Overboard and E-Ticket, I cannot give Whip Tide more than 12b. Super boulder problem, delicate dihedral and a nice and easy gym roof finish!
By Mike Collins
Nov 23, 2015

haha I could not agree more. The beginning crux feels impossibly hard for me. I really want to work on this thing but got spanked by that every time I try! I have only watched the video though, definitely need to watch someone do it in real time.