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17 - This and That Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cramming T 
Said and Done T 
Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 

Whim 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matt Donohoe & Pat Stewart, 1970
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on May 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Whim = fun

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Description 

Excellent OW and squeeze moves in moderate quality rock. A must do pitch for the semi-obscure / filth lover!

Ascend an ever widening, straight in, fist crack similar in appearance to Trail By Fire. Enter the squeeze and wiggle your way up into a rooflet. Reach over the rooflet for a dirty yet secure hand jam. Reach a ledge and take your pick of cracks to the top, one of which requires and extra #4 camalot and the other does not. Give yourself a pat on the back for giving this one a go and reaching the top.

There are three options for descent: 1) Walk to the right and rap with one rope from the Said and Done anchor. 2) Walk off to the left over the top of Tips. 3) Rap with one rope from a slung tree just left of the top out (recommended).

Location 

This climb is on the left side of the cliff. One hundred feet to the right of Tips. Look for a fist crack that turns into a squeeze with a small rooflet at the top.

Protection 

Pro to 4.5" Extra 3.5 - 4.5


Comments on Whim Add Comment
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By Joe Dawson
Jan 14, 2013

This climb is great fun. Unfortunately, it is not as filthy as advertised, nevertheless it is still well worth your time. The rock is a little flakey, but nothing terrible. If it saw more traffic, which it deserves, it would clean up nicely. We finished right, but if I did it again I would finish left, just looks better that way.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Apr 5, 2014

Sorry about the false advertisement. When I topped out, I was sweaty and covered in sand. But that was only do to one short section leaving the squeeze. At the time, the only other person I knew who had climbed this said he liked the climb but got a mouth full of dirt placing a hand jam above his head. It is a good pitch though and a majority of it reminds me of Trial by Fire.

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