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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bernard & Sally Gillett '93
Page Views: 1,708
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Aug 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Dags In Beanland and Whetstone.


Whetstone follows most of the route 'Dags in Beanland', so check that for beta. It only differs in the second pitch.

P2) Start the same as Dags in Beanland's second pitch, but traverse right with crack systems to the large left-facing dihedral. Also, a traverse could be made up higher, after clipping the first 3 bolts, then diagonaling to the roof, and hand traversing the underclings to the dihedral. Pull through the tricky roof, then head up easy cracks to another hand traverse left to the bolted anchors for Dags.

This variation of Dags is very good, and it is probably the only option after a heavy day of rain. We chose it because the water streak that Dags climbs was soaked.


Standard rack. A few bolts here and there.

Photos of Whetstone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Arnosky hangin' out in belay.  Photo taken...
Richard Arnosky hangin' out in belay. Photo taken...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel belaying at the first 2-bolt anchor.  Roof is...
Joel belaying at the first 2-bolt anchor. Roof is...

Comments on Whetstone Add Comment
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By Bernard Gillett
Sep 2, 2003

Whetstone actually differs from Dags in Beanland most of the way. My wife and I went to climb Dags, but (like Peter) found the crux bolt ladder on pitch two soaked, so we went out right, and came back to the Dags belay after a half pitch. I was never able to locate the bolt on the following lead of Dags, so I just kept linking natural features until we reached the top of the rock. Later, I revisited the Rock and Ice topo of the route, and came to the conclusion that we stayed to the right of Dags from halfway through the 2nd pitch all the way up. Four years later, Rick Thompson and friends climbed Crack Slabbeth, which starts and stays right of Dags for the entire way, and shares ground with Whetstone.
By Joel Larner
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A fun route. I found this one to be about the same grade as Dags. Instead of climbing pitch 1 of Dags, we went up pitch 1 of Crack Slabbeth direct to the two-bolt anchor. A bit runout, but goes just fine. The roof moves are different than those on Dags, so could be easier or harder dependant on how tall the climber is and what types of moves you like.

We climbed to the top set of bolt anchors, then rap'd back down instead of doing the walk off. There is a sling and rings on the tree halfway between anchors two and three. We were able to use a single rope to make 4 raps back down to the lowest 2 bolt anchor: 1) top 2-bolt to slung tree; 2) slung tree to middle 2-bolt; 3) 2-bolt to 2-bolt on Dags; 4) 2-bolt on Dags to lower 2-bolt on Whetstone. The slab is pretty low angle up top with plenty of things to catch a knot, so we felt this was better than making longer raps with 2 ropes and risking catching a knot. The 5th rap from the lowest 2-bolt anchor requires 2 ropes. It is actually 180' to the very bottom, although you could do it with two 50M if you go off to the side a little and walk off from there. Pretty obvious once you see it.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 31, 2008

Awesome climb had somewhat a night ascent with Farhnum. This would be great to top out on the Fourth of July. Me and Cale on the last pitch went for the head wall. Instead of cutting right into 5.6 territory, head right for the middle of the wall, placed some good pro (#1 C4, and a bomber nut) and made the overhanging wall, I'd give it a hard 10 move for sure, but awesome jugs on top. We loved it.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 31, 2008

I wouldn't recomend rapping off. I've got my rope stuck a couple of times, there's a lot of small cracks perfect for hangups. I feel that the rap is much better on the Dag's side.

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