REI Community
Trout Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cutthroat T,S 
Greenback S 
Griffon S 
Trout Farm, The T 
Where's Vaino? T 

Where's Vaino? 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand, 9/9/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Nickie Kelly cranking the exit move at the top of ...

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    "Where's Vaino?" is the steep left-facing corner on the left side of Trout Rock. This is a classic pitch of laybacking and stemming with solid moves from bottom to top.

    Climb the corner to the 2-bolt anchor at the top.

    The crux is a strenuous layback into a stem about 15' up. I got in a yellow Alien and a #2 and #3 Camalot for pro. Above, the climbing eases but is still interesting. A second crux comes at the top of the corner where you exit right. The last pro is a #1 Camalot down left and below your feet.

    This pitch is comparable to Tough Situation on the Second Elephant Buttress and a bit easier and shorter than Cosmosis on Bell Buttress. Well worth bringing a trad rack to Trout Rock!

    Protection 

    Gear to 3.5". I placed pro from a green Alien to a #3.5 Camalot. Two #2 Camalots were useful. 2-bolt anchor.


    Photos of Where's Vaino? Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up.
    Starting up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly working the right wall.
    Nickie Kelly working the right wall.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly enjoying a stem rest halfway up the p...
    Nickie Kelly enjoying a stem rest halfway up the p...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly laybacking up "Where's Vaino?&qu...
    Nickie Kelly laybacking up "Where's Vaino?&qu...
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Where's Vaino?", a classic pitch of lay...
    BETA PHOTO: "Where's Vaino?", a classic pitch of lay...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on Trout Rock.  "Where's Vaino?" ...
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on Trout Rock. "Where's Vaino?" ...

    Comments on Where's Vaino? Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 10, 2005
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    This route is about 33 feet tall. Not 25 feet, but not 50 feet either. It does have a few interesting moves, but nothing worthy of note in terms of salient qualities or my own objective experiences on it. After we climbed on the 'Beer Can Rock' we went looking for this rock. One of my partners looked at the rock and summed it up, asking: "That tiny thing? Why would I want to climb anything on that?" She elected to join others in our group who agreed and went climbing elsewhere. Chris & I stayed and climbed every route on the rock at a relaxed pace in a span of 45 minutes. I don't regret it, but in a few weeks I won't remember it anyway.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 16, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Kind of a typical Boulder crack, in that if you stacked about 5 of them on top of each other, it would add up to a good route. The climbing is interesting, but quite short.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Jul 11, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I can't in good conscience call this 10a. Maybe if it were 100 feet longer. It's sustained and has good moves, so it is worth doing if you're in the area, but don't worry too much about the grade.

    The crux for me was getting off the ledge.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About