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Sunbeam Buttress
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Where's My Chisel S 

Where's My Chisel 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rizzo, 2005
Page Views: 398
Submitted By: Peter Lundgren on Oct 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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One move wonder stepping up onto the slab at the second bolt.


Leftmost route at Sunbeam Buttress.


4 bolts

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By Scott Marsh
Nov 12, 2012

Not a good route. Used to be a bolted on hold because stepping up to the slab was is impossible unless you're extremely tall and can reach the very high crimps. I'm 6'4" and had a hard time reaching them. You could aid through using the first bolt on the slab grabbing the quickdraw, but kinda ruins the route.
By Peter Lundgren
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 23, 2013

Don't climb this; it's awful. But I did think that moving onto the slab was a thought provoking mantle. Maybe 5.10 based on my abilities at the time.
By Samuel Roberts
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This Route actually 5.7 A0 because of the second bolt move for anybody that can't reach the holds or don't have small enough fingers to fit into the bolt hole for the artificial hold
By Deejinator
Nov 26, 2013

There should really be a warning at the bottom of this route saying don't climb it. If you want a good 5.9 here try Backstabber.
By Will Hipschman
From: Durham, NC
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The second bolt move is a 5.9 slab move--feels sketchy but totally do-able. High right foot, mantle with the left hand and push. Using the mantle the high holds are reachable for me (5'9"). You can clip the bolt before this move, so it's well-protected.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Mar 20, 2016

There are tons of 5.9s that are stellar leads and fun topropes, with great movement and holds, in Muir and all over the Red. This is not one of them. It was not worth the time.

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