|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jordan Ramey on Mar 12, 2007|
|Comments on Where Janitors Dare||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 13, 2009
|An adventurous outing for the 5.7 leader. Demands a bit of creativity. Be mindful of ropedrag and a bit of loose rock. Anchor takes finger sized cams, nuts, #3 camalot. Never a line for this one, and despite the title, not really that dirty with just a touch of grain. For a leader at/near their limit, rack fingers to as big as you have (a 6 friend wouldn't go unused) and maybe double up on the .75-3 camalot sizes.|
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
2 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Awkward climbing on this one. Right off the ground feels every bit of 5.7, and gets harder at the top.
Variation: "Careless Caretaker" (less grovelly, more exposed/photogenic) - Avoids the ghastly flared offwidth at the very top of the route by switchbacking on a shallow zigzag crack system. Step out of the hollows to a decent ledge on the right. Traverse a little further out right on a crimp rail, then cut back left on a higher crimp rail. Both of these are shallow cracks that will take mid-sized cams. Exit by short vertical .75/1 crack before stepping left to normal top anchor.