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The Sentinel - West Face
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Butt Buttress, The S 
Centipede, The T 
Chameleon, The T 
Desert Song T 
Flared Bear T 
Great White Buffalo T 
Illusion Dweller T 
Not for Loan T 
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 
Some Like It Hot T 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Where Janitors Dare T 
Worms in Your Brain T 

Where Janitors Dare 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,869
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Mar 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Great White Buffalo area on Sentin...

Description 

The crux is near the top at the final chimney section. Some of the rock is loose and you will pour pebbles out of the chimney on your way up. Also, there is a large flake in the chimney about 2/3 of the way up that is expanding and could get ripped out. Watch out for that. It's near the section where everything sounds hollow and you pray you don't fall on your gear.

This end of Sentinel is a bit chossy. Illusion Dweller end is by far much better.

Location 

Starts at the left side of the West face of Sentinel (Illusion Dweller side). Climbs the obvious chimney straight up. Located to the right of the bolted (2 low face bolts) 5.12 climb.

Protection 

Pro to 4.5". No anchors at the top, but several cracks to build one in OR you can place some directionals up high and trot over to the anchors on the climb next to it (Great White Buffalo).


Photos of Where Janitors Dare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Offwidthy section.
Offwidthy section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Variation: "Careless Caretaker" (see com...
Variation: "Careless Caretaker" (see com...
Rock Climbing Photo: Where Janitors Dare. Photo by Blitzo.
Where Janitors Dare. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Where Janitors Dare Add Comment
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 13, 2009

An adventurous outing for the 5.7 leader. Demands a bit of creativity. Be mindful of ropedrag and a bit of loose rock. Anchor takes finger sized cams, nuts, #3 camalot. Never a line for this one, and despite the title, not really that dirty with just a touch of grain. For a leader at/near their limit, rack fingers to as big as you have (a 6 friend wouldn't go unused) and maybe double up on the .75-3 camalot sizes.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 17, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awkward climbing on this one. Right off the ground feels every bit of 5.7, and gets harder at the top.

Variation: "Careless Caretaker" (less grovelly, more exposed/photogenic) - Avoids the ghastly flared offwidth at the very top of the route by switchbacking on a shallow zigzag crack system. Step out of the hollows to a decent ledge on the right. Traverse a little further out right on a crimp rail, then cut back left on a higher crimp rail. Both of these are shallow cracks that will take mid-sized cams. Exit by short vertical .75/1 crack before stepping left to normal top anchor.

Rock Climbing Photo: Variation: "Careless Caretaker"
Variation: "Careless Caretaker"

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