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Where God Changed His Oil 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Michael May on Aug 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Loose and oily feeling rock. Bad, Bad, Bad.


The Alcove


9 bolts to chains

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By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 20, 2015

Words cannot describe how terrible this route actually is. I figured, it looks awful but it's only 5.11 and can't be that bad right? Started up it, breaking of handholds and feet with almost every move. Clipped the third bolt and was contemplating my next move when both large/chalked jugs I was hanging on broke simultaneously. One struck me in the face as I whipped and both narrowly missed my belayer below. Due to the danger to my belayer, and my bleeding face, it was time to be done. Stay off this garbage pile.
By Flacker
From: Lander, WY
Aug 4, 2015

I got on this route expecting it to be the worst route in the Alcove (saving it for last). It was bad don't get me wrong, but I feel many other routes have similar chossy and oily feeling sections (like citation). Though this may have a longer oily section... and due to less traffic a little more chossy than most
By Ian Cavanaugh
Apr 16, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Knowing this was going to be a dirty mess I did t have high hopes for the quality. To my surprise the route actually climbed fairly well, pretty dirty with a few loose holds, but nothing new for this area. It was long and sustained and very engaging throughout. With some traffic and new bolts this could be a good route. Don't discount it just because people say it's chossy. And like all other routes in the alcove, just because there is chalk on a hold doesn't mean it's solid. If you climb delicately and check suspect hold you should be just fine. Anchors could be moved to a slightly better location.
By Steve Dodd
From: My Van
Aug 7, 2017

This is the distilled essence of Dierkes climbing, which doesn't necessarily make for the best climbing. It is memorable though.

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