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When the Levee Breaks 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jesse Brown
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Jake Dickerson on Jun 5, 2017

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Description 

3 star climbing to a WTF finish. Start on two sick mono's and bust up the face with big moves on incut 2 and 3 finger pockets. Continue up the amazing clean line of pockets to a horizontal break which is unfortunately covered in bat poop. Rest up, fire a few steep moves, then grab your draw in frustration as the holds vanish. There is a fixed quick link on the last bolt which I happily lowered off. I honestly have no idea how to get to the chains, perhaps a hold broke? Or the more likely scenario is that I'm a weenie.

Location 

The right most side of the heavy metal sector. When the main trail hits the cliff, follow the trail right past the "easy listening slab" and a section with no routes. You will come to a clean white sector with 3 bolted routes, this is the right most one.

Protection 

9 Bolts


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By Matt Enlow
From: Wyoming
Jul 21, 2017

Awesome, glad i'm not the only person who was convinced something's missing from the end. Likewise lowered off the last bolt, don't see any way to get to the anchors - even locking off on the last draw no holds could be found.

Was really good climbing up til then, although there's some crumble off to the right. The crumbles definitely support the broken hold theory...
By TSpiegelberg
From: Sheridan, Wyoming
Aug 2, 2017

This route should have anchors below the bulge in my opinion as it would be a classic mid 11.... Seems as though many people try this route and lower off the quick link nearly every time. Just because the anchors are up there doesn't mean they should be.

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