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Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
Routes Sorted
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"Center Cliff Rap Line" T 
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T 
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R)  T 
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 
Life by the Numbers T 
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers  T 
North (right) End Descent Gully T 
Rapier T 
Rock Candy T 
Saber T 
Saber Rattler  T 
Scepter  T 
Sea of Green  T 
Sea of Green Direct Start T 
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 
South (Left) Descent Gully T 
Steve's Twilight T 
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  T 
When the Dog Bites  T 

When the Dog Bites  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Chuck Woodman 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Suzy Q and Bad Dogs Area

Description 

Originally listed in MP as "Bad Dogs" there's an interesting story about the climb's name in Jon Syke's new guide "The Notches". I met the fellow(s) who put in this climb, but forget his/their name(s).

START- Right of Suzy Q. Just a few feet down hill from the height of land look for a "cut off" path that leads right.(photo)

The climb as described may not be EXACTLY the line of F.A., but is close.

P1 - After a move or two gain a beautiful crack system (good pro, and in August blueberries too!). Follow the crack system(s) up until it peters out below a steep slab and bolt. [High Clip] ***[beta] Above the bolt move up and right to a fine ledge with a natural thread in a shallow corner 8 ft above the ledge. 110-125 ft 5.8 ( 5.9?)


P2 - A "four star pitch" Climb the face just left of the protect-able shallow corner that arches right. Climb over the arch near its apex, then up the fine slab (bolts) moving left at the top to the rap anchor at the top of Suzy Q. 100 ft 5.7 / 5.7+
NOTE: Ignore the small angle piton in a flake to the right, that's on Skyline Promenade.

NOTE: It is possible to reach the P1 belay ledge from the top Suzy Q rap station by tension-traversing / penduluming then clipping the rap rope(s) through the top bolt and "dropping" down to the belay ledge.


[***Beta if you want it: I have always stepped down after clipping and climbed left of the bolt (5.8) but think the route may go directly over the bolt at 5.9(?) ]

Protection 

Std Rack


Photos of When the Dog Bites Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Cut over Path" to Bad Dogs
BETA PHOTO: "Cut over Path" to Bad Dogs

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