When Shrimp Learn to Whistle
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BETA PHOTO: When Shrimp learn to Whistle
Easy climbing to the first bolt, then crimp your way through the sharp arete to a ledge with the first set of anchors. Reaching the first anchors is 11a and around 60 feet of climbing.
Climbing through the second pitch goes at 11b as the route continues on bolts out left through the steep face. Take some alpine draws to reduce the drag of going around the corner and through the roof.
Right side of Amphitheater left of "Single Handed Sailor".
4 bolts to the first set of anchors. Kelley Guide lists 10 total bolts to the second anchors.
By Bill Webster
Sep 27, 2013
Its .11b. The upper part has nice new bolts and is actually good climbing. Don't bail low.
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
If you're going to climb the upper section (worth it at least for the extra mileage), you'll prob want two alpine draws and maybe a few of those slightly longer normal draws. The alpine draws go on 1) an anchor bolt from the first half of the route (the route turns a corner quickly afterwards) and 2) the last bolt (to prevent drag on the final roof).