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Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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Pole Dancing S 
Pump Street S 
Single Handed Sailor S 
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Syzygy T,S 
Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 
Turkey Shoot S 
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 

When Shrimp Learn to Whistle 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 2,385
Submitted By: Javier L on Mar 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: When Shrimp learn to Whistle

Description 

Easy climbing to the first bolt, then crimp your way through the sharp arete to a ledge with the first set of anchors. Reaching the first anchors is 11a and around 60 feet of climbing.

Climbing through the second pitch goes at 11b as the route continues on bolts out left through the steep face. Take some alpine draws to reduce the drag of going around the corner and through the roof.

Location 

Right side of Amphitheater left of "Single Handed Sailor".

Protection 

4 bolts to the first set of anchors. Kelley Guide lists 10 total bolts to the second anchors.


Comments on When Shrimp Learn to Whistle Add Comment
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By Bill Webster
Sep 27, 2013

Its .11b. The upper part has nice new bolts and is actually good climbing. Don't bail low.
By LKenn
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

If you're going to climb the upper section (worth it at least for the extra mileage), you'll prob want two alpine draws and maybe a few of those slightly longer normal draws. The alpine draws go on 1) an anchor bolt from the first half of the route (the route turns a corner quickly afterwards) and 2) the last bolt (to prevent drag on the final roof).