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When In Doubt T,TR 

When In Doubt 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Tradgic Yogurt on May 23, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: A rope on the route (another view).

Description 

This line follows the nice crack to the left of Kevin Spies the Line. I would not consider it a variation, since the bolt line is far enough to the right to be out of reach.

It may or may not be the same as route "G" in the Table Top main page. The crux is probably deciding where to stop and place your first pro - stances were good, so I ran it out until my feet were nearly at the height of Kevin's second bolt.

If 5.7 Dihedral at Lookout Mountain Crag is a 5.7, then this is 5.6+ or 5.7- and flows enjoyably well. You should be able to TR off the anchors for Kevin.

Location 

Start in the slot for Kevin Spies the Line (see the picture from Mar. 14, 2010). Follow the crack up and left. Rappel from the anchors for Kevin Spies the Line.

Protection 

This was lead on small to medium nuts, one #3 Ballnut, and one larger nut (WC #8, I think). I didn't use any cams, may have used a Torque Nut. The line eats gear pretty well.

The first placement I decided to make was a WC #1, though if you want to place lower or higher you can use a different size pretty easily. If you have doubles of small nuts, then the Ballnut isn't needed.


Photos of When In Doubt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Draws on Kevin Spies The Line, rope on When In Dou...
Draws on Kevin Spies The Line, rope on When In Dou...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route marked in a close up shot.
BETA PHOTO: The route marked in a close up shot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Blue lines approximately show the line taken.
BETA PHOTO: Blue lines approximately show the line taken.

Comments on When In Doubt Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 14, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You could use all nuts for protection, but small cams up to a #1 Camalot work well.

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