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When do you start training?
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Jan 8, 2013
At what stage in a climbing career does one start training?

I've been climbing for around 4 months.

How would I train if I can only actually climb or go to the gym 1 day a week?
Is there a certain grade that you start training at?
Should I train?

To those of you who also have limited time at the rock, how do you stay in shape/train?
Joined Aug 25, 2012
65 points
Jan 8, 2013
More information:
Boulders V7

Sport: 5.12b

4 months? We should be asking you how to train, not the other way around.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
373 points
Jan 8, 2013
Training gives you an unfair advantage over those who don't. So just as we as a society are striving to reduce everything the lowest common denominator and spread the fairness around, neither should you do any training. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
1,044 points
Jan 8, 2013
^^^ very funny. Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jun 3, 2012
136 points
Jan 8, 2013
So you've been climbing once a week for four months, or in other words, you've climbed 16 times, and you climb 12b/V7?

If that's actually the case, you are an extreme outlier and have a very, very high baseline

Anyone who climbs at that level is ready to start seriously training. In fact, I don't think I've ever met someone who climbs at that level and hasn't already been training for some time.

Anyway, get a copy of the Self-Coached Climber. Inside you'll find all you need to know.
From Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 7, 2011
262 points
Jan 8, 2013
I used to always tell people that a reasonably fit person ought to be able to work up to redpointing 5.12a sport routes just by focusing on movement skills and climbing regularly (2-3 times per week), and therefore, that was about the point one might consider following a structured training program. In retrospect, I think I said that simply because that is what I did. With hindsight, I think I would have been better off as a performance rock climber had I started training earlier. The two years or so I spent getting from 5.11- to 5.12- included three major finger injuries and lots of frustration. I’m confident I could have avoided those injuries, and likely progressed further, faster, had I followed a structured training program.

Considering the above, why not start training immediately? There are at least three standard reasons often cited...

Read the rest here:
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,893 points
Jan 9, 2013
I think I need to clear up some things.

In August, I was climbing 2-3 times a week.

for the last 2.5 weeks, I was doing a 2 days on, 1 day off cycle.

Generally, because of school, I am able to climb around once a week.

During the week, I run every day for Track, and I go to the weight room M-W-F.

@Mono, thanks for the link to the site.
Joined Aug 25, 2012
65 points
Jan 9, 2013
Muscles get stronger significantly faster than connective tissue- aka tendons. Stay away from pockets and super small crimps like the plague for 6 months.

Pay now save later. Or make the same mistakes me and monomaniac made and set back your climbing career significantly.
James Otey
From NH
Joined Mar 30, 2007
890 points

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