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Wheeler Mountain

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Great Corner, The 
Hump or Die 
Jugfest, Stella and Casey 
Moosehead Crack 
Right Stuff, The 
Whine and Cheese 
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From MP's sister site:

Wheeler Mountain Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,400'
Location: 44.73463, -72.09158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,709
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: TSluiter on Oct 12, 2015  with updates from NEKlimb
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BETA PHOTO: Map of Wheeler Mountain including climber's trails...

  • See for more info MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review

  • Logging Operations 

    As of 5/31:

    With the logging operations completed, Wheeler Mountain is again open to the public and to climbers. Please adhere to any new signage posted and note that the trail to the top of the mountain will likely remain closed until September for rerouting purposes.


    Wheeler Mountain, as I have read, is one of the classic climbing areas in Vermont. First ascents were completed in the 1940's. It is very well developed, many documented climbs on beautiful granite. Hopefully this place will see more traffic, it is fantastic (and South-facing!).

    Ground-up FA's are the way of the world here, as is ground-up bolting.

    Travis Peckham's guidebook Tough Schist has almost 100 routes in the Wheeler Mountain section, buy the book.

    Getting There 

    Just east of Lake Willoughby on Wheeler Mountain Road near Sutton, VT. Parts of the mountain are in Lake Willoughby State Forest. 3 Parking areas, one or two of which are on private land. The road in is a little rough but nothing a normal passenger car can't handle. Access to Wheeler Mountain road is off Rt. 5.

    The second parking area has the climber's trail heading north to the base of the cliff. Pass a house-sized boulder and stay right to run along most of the climbs via the base of the cliffs. Take a left at the house-sized boulder to get to the Moosehead Crack/Woolite area.

    Approach time is ~10 minutes to the first routes, almost an hour to get all the way around the NE side of the mountain. Many, many climbs along the way.

    Climbing Season

    For the All Locations area.

    Weather station 6.0 miles from here

    22 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Wheeler Mountain

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wheeler Mountain:
    VJ's   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   The Great Corner
    Moosehead Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Moosehead Crack
    Red Stinger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Whine and Cheese
    It's a Fine Line   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Moosehead Crack
    No One to Run With   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Whine and Cheese
    The Right Stuff   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Right Stuff
    VJ's Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Great Corner
    A Kind Gesture   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Moosehead Crack
    EthWheel Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Great Corner
    Wine and Cheese   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Whine and Cheese
    The Great Corner   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Great Corner
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wheeler Mountain

    Featured Route For Wheeler Mountain
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Moosehead Crack.  The climb heads up this...

    Moosehead Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Vermont : Wheeler Mountain : Moosehead Crack
    Start at the blocky base with a tiny spruce just above you and the roof extending to the right of you. Follow up and right to see the hand crack. Then, follow the crack until it disappears. Slab to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

    Photos of Wheeler Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Outline of the state forest and parking areas for ...
    BETA PHOTO: Outline of the state forest and parking areas for ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wheeler Mt.
    Wheeler Mt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset after topping out on VJs
    Sunset after topping out on VJs
    Rock Climbing Photo: The BFR.  Some boulder problems here and on other ...
    BETA PHOTO: The BFR. Some boulder problems here and on other ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sign at the Climber's parking area
    BETA PHOTO: Sign at the Climber's parking area
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the bottom of VJ's route, just looking at a s...
    BETA PHOTO: From the bottom of VJ's route, just looking at a s...
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of Mt. Pisgah from the top(ish) of Wheeler.
    BETA PHOTO: View of Mt. Pisgah from the top(ish) of Wheeler.

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