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Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss")

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Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss") Rock Climbing 


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Location: 34.50707, -119.27397 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Climber Kris on Dec 12, 2016
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Walking from the parking area at Wheeler, looking ...

Description 

After being brought up here a couple times I was surprised to see this place not posted. Im hoping to help contribute to our community by submitting these climbs!

There are eight or nine routes total, on conglomerate. Rock quality ranges from good to terrible, and the area has apparently earned the nick-name Cobble Choss. The gully is full of beautiful, lush foliage, and has some pretty good views too.

Here is the history, gleaned from the various locals I know:
Development began several years ago when LA climbers Mike Levanduski and Eric Benevente began quietly putting up sport climbs in the gully. Trails were established to the climbs, brush cut back, and the area opened up. Development is still going on, with one red tagged route currently.

Unfortunately their efforts are not without some controversy. Eric and Mike secretly and repeatedly retrobolted 'Economique', a popular line in the main area. Their refusal to admit responsibility, and the ensuing chop war, are sore points with area climbers. Dysfunctional behavior seems to have led to a number of other issues as well.

Regardless of the drama, the area has a couple fun lines and is worth the hike up the hill (I have led or top-roped each climb). The first three lines encountered are uber choss....just keep walking.


My only personal gripe is the handrail and pieces of rebar drilled into the rock. Not cool. Leave no trace! Also there were lots of tools and trash lying around.

Getting There 

Start at the bend in the creek, just upstream from Trout Farm. A trail begins up the hill on the east side of the creek (right hand if facing up stream).

Climbing Season

For the Hwy 33/Ojai area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss")

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss"):
Ground Up Round Up   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss")

Featured Route For Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss")
Rock Climbing Photo: Ty taking the lead

Ground Up Round Up 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : Central Coast : ... : Wheeler Gorge - East Gully ...
Climb up and left, through a roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Wheeler Gorge - East Gully (aka "Cobble Choss") Add Comment
Show which comments
By Climber Kris
Dec 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Handrail
Handrail




Rock Climbing Photo: Rebar steps
Rebar steps



Rock Climbing Photo: Not sure.
Not sure.



My one gripe is the excessive trail work, handrail, and rebar steps. I did trailwork for the Forest Service (only female in my group), so I know that it can be hard. But come on! Put some thought into it and make a proper trail. Drilling handrails and steps is not cool.
By Joe Garibay
From: Ventura, Ca
Dec 13, 2016
Use caution up here. Not all routes were completed. Some were red tagged. Lots of choss and P.O.
By Richard Shore
Dec 13, 2016
Via Ferratas on 3rd class terrain.

Retrobolting established routes.

Total removal of cliffside vegetation for squeeze jobs.

Manipulating the landscape in any way they see fit.

For your next installment, I'd like to see some bolt-on belay ledges, ala Potrero Chico Mexico. Or maybe a big catch-net over the tunnel to protect cars from the falling choss when these guys "develop" the second tier above the road.

Access issues, anyone?
By Joe Garibay
From: Ventura, Ca
Dec 14, 2016
Have you been up there yet, Richard? No access problems. Just very steep. The rebar does help. A slip on that trail wil send you tumbling down. I feel like one big rain will wash all that trail work out.
By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 14, 2016
I dont mind the route development and landscaping, but re bar and handrails?

Also, why the separate area(east gully)?
By Richard Shore
Dec 14, 2016
Joe, you're missing the point. This behavior will cause access issues for all climbers in the area when the forest service takes notice.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 14, 2016
I have to admit. Drilling one little hole at the start of Economique now seems relatively harmless...
By Joe Garibay
From: Ventura, Ca
Dec 14, 2016
Noted. I do appreciate how untouched and raw this wilderness is. Less is more
By michael w. levanduski
From: ventura
Dec 18, 2016
nice , more stuff for you all to complain about. now maybe you will understand why the route in the creek was named bitch free zone. the tools left up there are for trail work and there was also some hardware left behind, big deal. I never left any trash. lots of work went into trail building if you dont like the trails dont use them. if you dont like the routes dont climb them. I called the area cobble choss( upper and lower) and all the routes do have names and i know who has got the f. a. not that it matters to any of you "locals". I would bet other climbers would be happy to have new routes to climb with a trail cut through all the poison oak for them, but not so. well go ahead and bitch we will just keep on climbing and route setting and enjoying out time here in OUR national forest. I also dont appreciate anyone logging my routes here on this web site just so you can gain some kind recondition from your peers. none of you did any work on the trails or the routes but you dont hesitate to jump on this stupid web site and complain, i find this to be truly sophomoric to say the least. in closing i would like it to be known that i am not from l.a. but am indeed a local from ventura and we have been climbing on these sport routes ever since they first were bolted.
By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 21, 2016
I don't know who 'Climber Kris' is or rather, who owns the 'Climber Kris' account but, clearly it was created with the sole purpose of pulling your pants down Michael. Look at the date that the account was created and then look at the date that this page was created.
You have a 'fan'.

I can imagine your surprise and anger. It's all here, laid to bare.

But considering the shenanigans that you and your friends have been party to down in WG these past few years, you had to know something like this was coming. Right?

Apparently declaring WG a 'Bitch Free Zone' isn't working out the way you planned. Some would call that ironic I guess.

It's sucks, I know.
It sucks because you're not the only one squeezing in some bullshit down there in WG, and you're not the only old time local who thinks he dosnt have to answer to anyone. But right now, it's all eyes on you friend.

All of this business is unfortunate. I wish you guys would have never started f-ing around with that damn bolt.

This gets worse before it gets better.

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