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Tieranny Roofs
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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Glenn Ritter
Season: Winter
Page Views: 3,717
Submitted By: Christopher Barlow on Dec 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Whatsherface is a great route on a clean, slightly overhanging panel of golden sandstone. The first crux comes low with sequential, fingery climbing to a fun toss to a jug. Rest up on good feet and horizontal hand jams, then climb sustained rock to the upper, very low percentage, crux. Easier, but very pumpy climbing through the final roofs brings you to the Captain Hook-style cold shut anchors.


Whatsherface is a bit right of the Tierrany Roof area proper. Start about 50 ft right of the end of the long, flat, sunbathing boulder at the base of the wall. The first hold is a horizontal jug/pinch. Above the second bolt is a long, right-slanting rail (with a conspicuous hueco just below it) leading to the third bolt.


10 bolts. The climbing to the first bolt is tricky, maybe use a long stick-clip. An extended draw is nice for the crux bolt as it is not the best of holds to clip from. Lower with a 60m rope from open cold shuts.

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By Glenn Ritter
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I can't remember for certain, but I think this plumbline was the 2nd route bolted at the Obed. Tieranny was the first. It just doesn't get much better than Whatsherface. Classic moves on beautiful rock.
By Blake Cash
From: Chattanooga, TN
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Best 13- at Tieranny. Unsure why is gets docked a star in the guide book...along with Canyon Man, which is the 2nd best route at Tieranny. Way better than the steeper thuggy routes that all get five stars.

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