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What's Wrong with Parents Today 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Left Bihedral area.

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  • Description 

    This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral Rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route one. Climb up a short corner with two bolts on the right side of the rock and just left of a chimney. Reach a steep section and crank through the roof (crux) and up to a ramp. Clip a bolt and make cool moves up the arete/face on great holds past the last bolt and into a nice crack system. Continue up to the anchors.

    Protection 

    Four bolts plus small to mid-size gear.


    Photos of What's Wrong with Parents Today Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: After 2nd crux.
    After 2nd crux.

    Comments on What's Wrong with Parents Today Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jan 1, 2003

    The roof crux is a grunt. I placed a red Alien at the lip. The higher crux, moving right, was perplexing and fun. I'd call this about 10c if it were trad. I rarely can onsight 10c trad cleanly in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, but was pretty solid on this.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Nov 3, 2006
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Perhaps, the answer is that we're the kids of the parents of yesterday ;) Nice route, 3 interesting cruxes, above the 2nd bolt, you can go L or R. L works. Wires & cams to #1 Camalot worked. Interesting variety of moves. Thanks for putting in the route!
    By Jon Lachelt
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 21, 2009

    A really fun route... but maybe my perspective was skewed by the adrenaline. Went up this w/o reading the info so didn't have any gear with me. Pretty scary at one point moving past the 3rd bolt since I wasn't quite sure which way to go at first (go right, BTW). I actually didn't find any of the moves very hard, just heady when I was run-out.
    By Jason Haas
    Feb 13, 2016

    Anchor links were fixed today.

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