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What's the Combo? S 
Unsorted Routes:

What's the Combo? 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1990
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

What's the Combo? is an enjoyable, sustained climb on a beautiful panel of white limestone. The movement is excellent & engaging, but some spooky rock and mild contrivance detract somewhat from the experience.

Begin up on a good ledge 3 feet off the ground. Easy scrambling along a detached flake leads to the business, 4-5 bolts of intense crimping & route finding, ending in a good shake at the obvious 6" undercling/flake. This section can be made easier (5.11) by using the left arete, but the climb is far more aesthetic & challenging without it.

Above the rest, 5.11- enduro crimps zig zag up the excellent headwall.

Location 

This is immediately left of "Flight Simulator", it climbs the clean wall immediately right of the obvious, flared, chimnney feature that splits the lower half of the "14 Carats" Wall.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. It is easy to TR this from Flight Simulator.


Comments on What's the Combo? Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I felt a little dirty when I did this route, but reading that Mono didn't even use the arete - now I feel filthy. Have to take a cold shower with a lot of soap, then go back and do it in better style.
By slim
Administrator
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Having done it a couple times now - it's pretty tedious to not use the side of the flake. I think overall with the top crux 11d is a pretty good compromise. Healthy runout to the anchor and the last few moves are not easy. Might want to have a plan for this as blowing this would probably be a 40 footer.
By Derek Young
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

After o/s'ing this using the dihedral, I checked out the face panel for the 1st few bolts. Maybe something broke, but the face seemed solid 12/12+ compared to other 12s in the area. Since there is nothing between this and 14 Carats (is there?*), path of least resistance says jam or layback the dihedral. Easy clips/bolt hanging. There are stellar holds in there.

So here's my opinion... (for whatever it's worth) 11/11- if you use the dihedral, 12/12+ if you use the face panel. Maybe I just didn't see the holds on the face panel, but whoa.

  • (is there?) - you'll notice there is a set of anchors set a little higher up to the left, halfway between Combo and 14carats. Wussat 'bout? You suggesting a Turrr sesh?