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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Whatever T 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Dallas Kloke, Chris Weidner ??
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jul 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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  • Description 

    "Whatever" is located on the mega-classic 'Rotten Wall' section of the upper West Ridge, right of the route "Inverted Vee" in Rossiter's guidebook. The climb starts near two trees at the base of a prominent, narrow arete that extends perhaps 40 feet up the wall. The easiest start climbs just right of the attractive arete over very large, loose-looking blocks for about 12 feet. A direct start up the edge of the arete is enjoyable, yet contrived and unprotectable. Once above the blocks, hike 25 feet up the bushy gully to a roof. Climb out the left side of the roof finishing with a slot (5.9). Go right under a second roof on loose blocks and continue up a short squeeze section. Climb right around an arete to a final 20-foot hand crack leading to a large ledge and bomber rappel tree. This pitch can, and maybe should, be split into two pitches to prevent horrendous ropedrag. The belay tree had a sling on it when we arrived leading us to believe that this pitch had already been climbed. While that is a plausible assumption, this tree may have been used as a means of escaping from the top of the cliff reached by other means. It is also possible that a different new route was climbed adjacent to "Whatever" since this tree would be a logical belay for anything topping out nearby. Who knows? . . . whatever . . .


    Bring a double set of cams from #1 TCU through #3 Camalot, and a set of nuts.

    Comments on Whatever Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 3, 2004

    Brooks would have missed it first, then Dougald. I however, might not have missed it. I suspect the slings were mine. The rock is pretty indistinct up there, so it's hard to say most of the time by simple descriptions.
    By slevin
    Dec 17, 2006

    There are two routes in this area from the 1980s, unreported in the current guide, and never well-described to begin with:

    Office Hours 5.9
    First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.

    SNFS 5.9
    First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.

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