REI Community
East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aero Space T 
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The T 
Broken Aero TR 
Buenos Aires T 
Casual T 
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof T 
Chesire For President T 
Doin' Life T 
Exorcist T 
Hemroidic Terror T 
Hueco Wall T,TR 
It T 
Jaws T 
Love Goddess S 
Military Industrial Complex T 
Nurn's Romp T 
Nurn's Rump T,TR 
Que? T,TR 
Rings Around Uranus T 
Search for Klingons T 
Smurf's Up T 
That T 
Thin Air T 
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wacko Wall T 
What T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 706
Submitted By: George Hayduke on Dec 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: What (5.8), Joshua Tree NP


The crux of this route is def. the off- width climbing the last 1/4.


P1) Climb the dogleg crack in the center of the formation up to a wide ledge with a large flake, Gear - 3"
P2) Ascend offwidth crack (crux) to top out. Gear - 5"

1)-sling horn to rap. back to ledge, - may be too sketchy for some , otherwise
2) walk off (East) entailing
a) exposed fourth class moves to rappel bolts note: (60 m rope will just reach the ground w/ stretch)/ or cont. east to decent option
b) exposed 4th class boulder hopping move to gain access to the walk off.


pro to 5 inches, no bolts, sling horn or walk off.

Comments on What Add Comment
Show which comments
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 22, 2009

I agree with John except for the gear reccomendations. I suspect that wider gear than a number 4 could be useful. Don
By David Fogel
From: Lake Forest, CA
Oct 31, 2016

Emphasis on larger cams. I don't remember if I could fit a #2 here...however I did place a #3 and #4. You could certainly place bigger cams like BD #5 or #6. As mentioned before, definitely some grainy areas.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About