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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 695
Submitted By: George Hayduke on Dec 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: What (5.8), Joshua Tree NP


The crux of this route is def. the off- width climbing the last 1/4.


P1) Climb the dogleg crack in the center of the formation up to a wide ledge with a large flake, Gear - 3"
P2) Ascend offwidth crack (crux) to top out. Gear - 5"

1)-sling horn to rap. back to ledge, - may be too sketchy for some , otherwise
2) walk off (East) entailing
a) exposed fourth class moves to rappel bolts note: (60 m rope will just reach the ground w/ stretch)/ or cont. east to decent option
b) exposed 4th class boulder hopping move to gain access to the walk off.


pro to 5 inches, no bolts, sling horn or walk off.

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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 22, 2009

I agree with John except for the gear reccomendations. I suspect that wider gear than a number 4 could be useful. Don
By David Fogel
From: Lake Forest, CA
Oct 31, 2016

Huge emphasis on larger cams here. Wish I had two #4's with me on this one. If you actually have a #5 that would be cool. I don't remember if I could fit a #2 here...however I did place a #3 and #4. As mentioned previously there are certainly grainy sections. My suggestion for the gear anchor, there is the previously mentioned horn to sling, and there are small solid cracks to the right of the horn (bring small to med size nuts, or cams .4 or smaller).

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