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What to do about missing hangers
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Jan 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries in Minnesota
I was climbing in El Potrero Chico earlier this month and saw several bolt studs with missing hangers. Of the approximate 400 bolts I clipped, 4 of them were missing hangers (1%). Some of these I ran it out past, but one time I decided to bail because the run out would be too far over harder terrain.

If I encounter a similar situation again what do people recommend? Should I carry some stainless hangers and nuts to leave on the wall? Should I just use a small wired stopper cinched around the bolt stud? If the hanger is missing should I assume that someone removed it because the bolt was suspect and not to trust it? Is this location specific? Something else?

What causes some hangers to be missing (especially just one or two high up on a multi pitch route)?

Thanks!
-Matt
Matt Skorina
From Minneapolis, MN
Joined Aug 18, 2015
37 points
Administrator
Jan 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Courtright Reservoir, September 2013
Matt Skorina wrote:
Should I carry some stainless hangers and nuts to leave on the wall? Should I just use a small wired stopper cinched around the bolt stud? Thanks! -Matt


Yes and yes.
Adam Stackhouse
Joined Jan 3, 2001
13,998 points
Administrator
Jan 26, 2016
I would also speak to the locals and find out why the hangers are missing. People dont climb five pitches up and decide to randomly jack a hanger in the middle of the route. If it was the first bolt, that is explainable, people (non climbers) jack the first bolt on routes in EPC all the time. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Jan 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"
+1 to both comments above. Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Joined May 6, 2010
90 points
Jan 27, 2016
Keyhole hangers... not rated like standard bolt hangers... better than nothing


Rock Climbing Photo: Moses Keyhole Hanger
Moses Keyhole Hanger


mosesclimbing.com/?page_id=13
Tapas
From Utah
Joined Feb 8, 2010
120 points
Jan 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Matt Skorina wrote:
What causes some hangers to be missing (especially just one or two high up on a multi pitch route)? Thanks! -Matt


My guess is that the missing hangers are from bolts that get pulled to the side when the rope is weighted. When this happens it can cause the hanger to rotate and loosen the nut on the bolt. Eventually if no one tightens the nut down it will just end up coming completely unscrewed and falling off. If the climbers on the route don't notice or have a replacement nut with them (as something like 99.9999% wouldn't), the hanger will obviously either just fall of or be removed. It might be a good idea to keep a nut, washer, and hanger with you for these situations since you're obviously coming across a fairly substantial number of missing hangers.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Jan 27, 2016
Any good sources for spare bolt nuts? I've always seen them sold with the bolt but haven't seen the nuts sold separately. Mark Ra
From Mid-Atlantic/CO
Joined Feb 6, 2014
71 points
Jan 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Inu
Uhhh................any hardware store. thomas ellis
From abq
Joined Oct 12, 2009
1,707 points
Administrator
Jan 27, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Gram
thomas ellis wrote:
Uhhh................any hardware store.


Though be careful not to mix metals if you are going to leave the nuts.
Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,828 points
Administrator
Jan 27, 2016
Andrew Gram wrote:
Though be careful not to mix metals if you are going to leave the nuts.

And keep in mind the bulk nuts sold at a hardware store are only grade 2, which is not sufficient. You should get at least grade 5 or if stainless, then A2-70 or better. Grade 5 is indicated by three marks as shown below.



However, grade 5 is a US thing, and I have no idea what Mexico uses.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points


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