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What Madness 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ryan Haeseley, Geoff Ris
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: geoffrey.ris on Apr 3, 2016

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Ryan leading the roof.


What madness is this that possesses a man to hang from rock? Not small rocks, mind you. Large cliffs that reach for the sky. Black, gray, orange cliffs made from sandstone. Sand! Doesn't he know that one wrong move, one slice of the rope, one failure of his harness or anchors could spell his demise? Not to mention what could go wrong if his belayer is not up to snuff. Why, today I looked up to see a roof of rock about 40 feet above with a crack splitting across it for damn near 20 feet. And guess what else I saw? A man! Arms and legs buried deep in the crack, suspended upside down like a sloth to a branch. Albeit with more agility and strength. Building his way to the other side, where he disappeared around the edge. After a while there was some chatter between the climber and belayer, something about easy moves on the most featured plates and a second pitch up the right. The line was pulled tight. "On belay" from above. I took a step toward the dihedral and readied myself to follow. This is madness, perhaps, but it is of the type which strengthens a man's body and soul. That rejects the notions and rules that have no good place in his mind. I reject what madness possesses a man to live a life in fear, never once embracing the animal he tries not to be. I respect such decisions, but the world is mine to do with as I choose... "Climbing!"


From Spider Rain, downhill at corner of wall.


Normal rack with extras in 2 - 4 range.

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By Corona
Apr 4, 2016

Does not yet have bolted anchors, which would make the descent easier. A 70m rope is not sufficient to get down in one rappel. Double ropes would be good to avoid drag.
By Southern Alex
May 12, 2016

FYI: according to the Park Service, placing bolts isn't currently allowed in the BSF.
By geoffrey.ris
Jul 7, 2016

Thanks Alex - these are trad line, so no bolts were placed. But from what I heard, hand drilling is allowed. Not positive, would need verification.
By Southern Alex
Sep 9, 2016

The Park Service told us that no new bolts are allowed. Climbers received this information at 2 public discussions that took place during the summer of 2015 (in Knoxville, TN and again at Bandy Creek). This ban is in place during an ongoing reconsideration of the climbing management plan for the park; there's no timetable on the release of a new climbing management plan.

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