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B. Black Sheep Boulder
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What John Paine Doesn't Know S 

What John Paine Doesn't Know 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: Chris Sedlacko on Apr 10, 2017

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Description 

Super fun, technical, bouldery start using the huge roof feature directly below the first bolt. Navigate the juggy tufa into a couple shallow holds on your way to the huge rail. Easy pocket and hueco climbing diagonally out right to the anchors.

Couldn't find this in any guidebooks or in the memory of local John Paine. Let me know if you know anything about it.

Location 

This route starts like 50 feet left of Touch My Shelf and goes up and right after the steep overhang. We started under the first bolt and slightly to the right so we could utilize the cool roof feature, which is absolutely worth the effort.

Protection 

Route was bolted...a long time ago. Seems to have been forgotten about--bolts are a little rusty, anchor chains/biners could use some love.

Also be ware. The hueceos and pockets up top are a little brittle so be gentle up there. This route is a little sandy/mossy, so go climb it!


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