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What I did on my summer holidays 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Don Cann, Andre Lechner - 2010
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Mark van Eijk on Sep 4, 2012

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An enjoyable face climb that will keep you guessing throughout. The crux comes passing the third bolt, but the climbing remains technical and builds to a thin sting in the tail to clip the chains. Good holds are abundant, but require creativity to use them properly, be sure to look on both sides of the arete! You'll really appreciate all that training at the gym as you side-pull, undercling, layback, and generally finesse your way up. As with many of the climbs in this area, the bolts start out tightly spaced, and then get increasingly spaced out as you ascend.


Find the two very close bolts (3-4 ft. apart) above the sharp "sharks tooth" boulders at the base of the wall. Start up the right of the boltline, traversing left after the crux to dodge the large cave.


10 bolts to a "traditional" anchor (2 bolts joined by a chain and single rap ring). WARNING! The first two bolts are very tightly spaced for a reason! The crux comes low and a fall onto the sharp boulders below would be extremely serious. The second bolt is difficult for the leader to see, so it pays to have an attentive belayer. Missing the second bolt will lead to trying to pull the crux with a certain groundfall being the consequence for failure.

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